Wallpaper Hanging Pointers

Posted on by Tim Carter

I would wager that I get at least three emails per month from homeowners who have stripped wallpaper from drywall only to find that more paper came off then what they expected.

Yes, the paper facing of the drywall was ripped off as well. Frequently the distraught homeowner gets out some drywall joint or topping compound and applies it to the damaged area trying to make the wall smooth again.

But two hours later the repaired area looks like a nightmare. There are blisters everywhere! The moisture from the joint compound has caused the inner paper core to swell.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local wallpaper hangers in case you're getting cold feet.

Wallpapering Tips

When I was first married, my wife Kathy and I wallpapered many of the wall surfaces in our first two homes. I had absolutely no training and picked it up rather quickly. As I look back, I was extremely lucky!

I should have had lots of bubbles, puckered seams and overall failure. I did have a few of the above and I sort of thought they were normal. But now I know that perfection is not that hard to achieve. Here are some of the most important things you need to know.

Just A Few Tools

Let's get started with the tools. Fortunately, you don't need many tools to wallpaper.

Here's a list that will get you going on this job:

  • retractable razor knife with snap-off blades
  • 4.5 or 6-inch drywall taping knife
  • smoothing brush or plastic smoother
  • 4-foot level
  • grout sponge
  • measuring tape
  • paint roller & pan
  • paint brush

Click the Image Below to get all, or some, of the tools now:

Wallpaper Tools List

CLICK HERE to get all the tools I recommend in one place. It's easy and fast.

Seal Before Repair

If you have damaged drywall like this, you need to seal this brown inner paper before you start to apply joint compound. Years ago, I accomplished this with either shellac or oil paint.

These oil based products would not cause the paper to blister and they blocked water from getting to the paper. You can still use these products, but you can also use a new water based product that does the same thing.

Don't ask me how it works and prevents blisters, but it indeed does work. This product is called Gardz and is made by the Zinsser Company. It is a unique product that is blue in color but dries clear.

You can usually find this product at a large paint store or at a home center. If you can't find it, feel free to buy some shellac or oil paint.

Two Different Sealers

Keep in mind that if you are repairing damaged drywall you will need to use two sealers. The first sealer we just talked about.

The second sealer is a different product that is applied to the repaired area and/or all new or existing drywall surfaces. This second sealer is the one that stops the wallpaper adhesive from damaging the wall surface a second time.

This wallpaper primer/sealer is different than shellac, oil paint or the Gardz product. It has a different composition and actually is the best thing to use under wallpaper.

It is a very unique product in that it allows the adhesive to grab very well but doesn't allow it to transfer through the primer into the paper below. Do not listen to salespeople or store clerks who tell you differently! You must get the special primers.

Wallpaper Videos

Watch these videos to get an idea of what you're up against. You can do this job since it's a small room and there's not much to cut around.



Wallpaper Pointers

Wallpapering is a very interesting craft. There are all sorts of papers out there and they have unique characteristics with respect to hanging. Regular vinyl coated papers that are perhaps the most common can be successfully hung by a homeowner.

Booking is a technical term used by professional hangers. Once adhesive has been applied or activated it causes the paper to swell. The paper must swell before it is applied to the wall.

If you apply the paper too quickly it will swell on the wall. The results are bubbles and puckered seams. You book the paper so that the adhesive doesn't dry out as it is swelling.

All you have to do is gently fold the paper so that the wet back side of the paper comes into contact with itself. Do not crease the paper at the halfway point. Be sure to line up the edges as you book it so that they do not dry out.

Generally speaking the swelling of the paper happens within 3 to 5 minutes. Some papers take longer. Simply read the instructions that come with the paper.

Specialized Wallpaper Primers for Drywall

Be careful when you visit a paint store or home center. You can't always trust the info you get there. This is especially true when you talk about specialized primers for wallpaper. If you are going to do a wallpaper job, I would highly recommend that you visit a store that specializes in wallpaper sales.

We have several in Cincinnati, Ohio, but one really stands out above the rest. It is called Walls and More. This shop is owned by a professional wallpaper hanger - one who is a member of the National Guild of Professional Paperhangers, Inc.

The advice you get here is golden. I would like to think that you would get similar great advice, products and accessories from a specialty wallpaper store in your city or town.

Special Resins

You need a special product to act as a sealer for fresh plaster or drywall. A regular paint primer or sealer is NOT the same as a wallpaper primer or sealer.

The wallpaper primer/sealer contains special resins that block wallpaper adhesive from penetrating past the primer/sealer. In fact, the product I used simply looks and acts differently than regular paint. It reminds me of oil based paint in a way but it is indeed water based.

The Products

The wallpaper primer/sealer I prefer is called Shieldz Plus. It is white but can be tinted just about any color you like. You typically tint it to the color of the background of the paper. This product is made by the Zinsser Company. You can find Shieldz at most paint stores, home centers or wallpaper stores. Go to the Zinsser web site for more details or retail outlets.

Sherwin Williams stores carry their own knock off product of Shieldz. They used to sell Shieldz but I think they thought they could make more money by coming up with a different formulation. Their product is called PrepRite PreWallcovering Primer. You should be able to find it at any Sherwin Williams store.

Relaxation

I am not talking about you but the paper. When you activate the paste on a prepasted paper, you don't go over and hang it right away. The paper actually expands a little and it can take two or three minutes for this to happen. Some papers take longer to relax or expand. That is the actual term, relax.

The way you achieve this is to paste a strip of paper and then book it. Booking means you fold the back of the paper on itself. In other words, you paste a piece of paper and then fold it back so the bottom half of the strip that has the paste contacts the top half that has been pasted. Line it up carefully so that the edges meet. This prevents the edges from drying out.

Pasting or Activating the Paste

Most papers today are pre-pasted. It can be a nightmare activating this paste using a trough or a bathtub. I recently discovered another awesome product made by the Zinsser Company.

It is called SURE-GRIP. It is a paste activator. This product is a fine powder that is mixed with water. You stir it and let the water sit for 30 minutes. At the end of the wait period you end up with a slippery liquid that is the consistency of thin pancake batter.

You apply this to the back of pre-pasted paper instead of dipping it in water. It is quick, easy and it does a superb job of maximizing the holding power of the adhesive. If you soak a pre-pasted paper the traditional way you can actually remove the paste! This activator is the only way to go. I will always use it in the future.

Plumb

You must start your first piece of paper plumb. You should also start hanging paper in the corner of the room that you don't often look at. You do this so that when you hang your last strip and it doesn't match it is hardly visible.

Every time you go around a corner you must re-plumb the paper. I do this before I hang the piece. I take a piece of scrap paper that is dry and butt it up against the last full sheet of paper that was hung, fold it into and around the corner and make a light pencil mark where it stops. I then create a crisp plumb line using a level up and down across this mark.

Corners

The professional way to do a corner is to install a full piece of paper into the corner. You temporarily let it wrap around the corner. You make sure the paper is matched up with the last full sheet and you smooth it into the corner.

Then use a sharp razor knife and cut the paper precisely in the corner. Pull the two pieces of paper apart and pull back the smoothed paper from the corner about one inch. Install the cut half of paper around the corner and hold it about 1/4 inch off the plumb line so that you have about 1/8 inch or so of the paper folding back around the corner.

Be sure you try to match the pattern for top and bottom elevation. Smooth the second piece of paper once it is positioned exactly. If the paper is vinyl coated, you must use a vinyl to vinyl adhesive where the two pieces of paper overlap one another.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local wallpaper hangers in case you're getting cold feet.

Carolyn missed a few steps on installing wallpaper from a home improvement show. She asked Tim for assistance. CLICK HERE to read that Hanging Wallpaper column.

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Whole House Fan Tips

Posted on by Tim Carter

Whole House Fan Tips

Whole house fans are really fantastic devices. They can, in many instances, provide extremely effective cooling with very little energy. Only areas with oppressive humidity levels find these fans not so useful. The effectiveness of a whole house fan is directly related to the relative humidity.

I explain in this linked air conditioning article, the effects of humidity and cooling. Simply put, our bodies cool themselves by evaporation. The process of evaporation actually extracts heat from our body. That is why we perspire when we are hot. The body wants that perspiration to evaporate so that it will become cooler. If it is humid outside, the perspiration can't readily evaporate into the air. The air has just about as much water as it wants! That's why it's humid!!!!!!

Air movement increases the rate of evaporation. That is why clothes dry faster on a windy day. Whole house fans are designed for just that purpose. They create a breeze which blows across our skin, which evaporates perspiration, which makes us feel cooler. It's really amazing when you think about it.

Sizing

As with anything, make sure that you have the right size. Can you imagine a large dump truck being powered by a lawn mower engine??? Don't make a similar mistake with a whole house fan. These fans all have different capacities. They can push only so much air. Assuming that you have 8 foot ceilings, determine the total square footage of your house. Multiply this number by 3. The result is the minimum cubic feet per minute capacity that the fan must produce.

Exhaust

What ever goes in must come out. If the fan wants to push 8,000 CFM, it better have a place to easily push it to. Your attic or roof vents must be adequate, otherwise the fan will be restricted. The blade will spin, but it won't be pushing as much air as it should be. You must have 1 square foot of free open exhaust area for every 750 CFM capacity of the fan.

Supply Air

The fan must be able to easily replace the air it is pushing. That means that you must open enough windows and/or doors to give it an ample supply of air.

Balancing Air Flow

Your personal level of comfort is a function of the rate of evaporation. You can maximize this by increasing the rate of air flow through the rooms you occupy during the day and night. For example, at night, you should only have windows open in the bedrooms and hallways feeding these rooms. This will maximize air flow through those rooms. The fan will not suck air from the other unoccupied rooms. During waking hours, reverse this scenario. Close the bedroom windows and open the living, kitchen, family room, etc. windows instead. After all, these are the rooms you have now decided to occupy.

The other rooms will become stuffy. However, these fans are so powerful, that if you had only one window open in the house, it might replace the air in that room with cooler outside air in as little as 15 seconds!

Installation

If you decide to install one of these fans - and I might add that it is a good idea - you must follow the instructions to the letter! One of the most critical steps is making sure that the hole you cut in the ceiling is square! If the hole is not square, the louver will quite possibly bind. That is a major problem!!! Checking the hole for square is simple. Let's say, for example, that the fan needs a hole 31 inches by 31 inches. The hole will be considered square if the two diagonals are the same measurement. A diagonal is the line which goes from one corner to the opposite corner. There are two diagonals in every square or rectangle. In this example, the diagonals would measure 3 feet 7 and 27/32 inches.

Also, if you have to cut ceiling joists, etc., DON'T do it unless you know for a fact that you are not harming the structural integrity of your house. If in doubt, contact an experienced carpenter or a structural engineer. Absolutely do not cut a prefabricated truss!!! If you must, contact a registered structural engineer and obtain his or her opinion. Trusses are not designed to be cut!!!!!

Cleaning

Regularly clean the fan blades and motor. These will get dusty in a hurry. Excessive dust buildup on the motor can lead to overheating which will shorten its life. Be sure that the power supply (circuit breaker) is OFF. These fans are extremely dangerous!! They can cut off fingers or hands. They spin rapidly and, because of their size, they have tremendous tip speeds. The outer tips or edges of the blades are spinning extremely fast. Don't take a chance. Someone may accidentally turn the fan on, a child may do it, anyone. ABSOLUTELY KILL THE POWER!!!!!!

Covers

If you live in a cold climate, you will not use the fan in the winter. The louvers don't always fit tightly. They can leak tremendous quantities of air. The best way to cope with this is to put a lid on the fan. I usually did this fairly easily. I always made a box that fit around the fan. I would usually make this box about 16 to 18 inches tall. This box would keep the attic insulation away from the fan blades. I would then make a simple lid for the box. This lid should have insulation stapled to the top of it.

Timers

Timers are a must. Many people like using these fans at night. However, if the fan runs all night, it can, in some cases, actually get cold in the house. A timer takes care of this problem. You can set the timer to operate the fan for several hours. The fan turns off while you are asleep (ZZZZZZZ).

Variable Speed Fans

Some fans are available with variable speed motors. This can be a benefit. If you need rapid cooling, turn the fan on high. Once you are comfortable, adjust the fan speed so as to maintain your level of comfort. Give these fans serious consideration.

Maintenance

Many fans have rubberized drive belts. The adjustment of these belts is critical. If the belt becomes loose, the fan may not spin fast enough. The instructions which come with the fan usually tell you how to check this adjustment. Keep this booklet. Put it in a zip-lock freezer bag. Attach this bag to the outside of the wood tunnel in the attic. It surely won't get lost if you do this.

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Whole House Fan Manufacturers

Posted on by Tim Carter

Following is a list of major manufacturers of whole house fans. I personally called many of these manufacturers. Those I spoke with said that they would gladly mail to you, free of charge, their product literature. Many of them will also tell you the location of their closest distributor. I encourage you to call as many as you have time. Ask for the literature and read and compare the qualities of one fan over another.

Ask questions concerning motor maintenance. Does the motor require periodic lubrication, or does it have lifetime lubrication from the factory? Ask for information regarding sizing of the fan. Make sure that you purchase the right size!!! Ask about variable speed fans. Ask about timers. Some fans come equipped with timers. Other fans offer it as an option. Timers are wonderful. Go here for additional information on timers. Here's the list of manufacturers. Please give them a call! Seriously, they love to hear from people like you and me.

  • Air Vent, Inc.
  • AirScape
  • Invisco
  • Ventamatic, Ltd.
  • FanAm, Inc.
  • Tamarack Technologies, Inc.
    Tamarack makes the HV1000 fan. This one pushes 1,000 CFM and has insulated doors.

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Exhaust Fans Manufacturers – Kitchen & Bath

Posted on by Tim Carter

Bathroom - Kitchen Exhaust Fan Manufacturers

Check out the web sites of these manufacturers. Some have great tip sheets concerning bath and kitchen ventilation. Remember to pay close attention to the CFM rating and static pressure. If for some reason, you cannot find the static pressure rating, call the manufacturer and ask for the engineering department. I know that this is extra work, but you will be rewarded with the answer you are looking for.

  • Broan Manufacturing Company
  • Fantech
  • Nutone
  • Tamarack Technologies
  • Therma-Stor Products

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Installing Window Boxes

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Is there special type of installation required when installing a window box or garden box? Is flashing required to be installed over the limestone sill? Is other flashing required around other parts of the window? Thanks, Dan N., Deerfield, Illinois.

DEAR DAN: The installation of window boxes is a function of their design. Some window boxes are made to rest on platforms while others have a special lip that allows the window box to hang from special stainless-steel clips. I prefer the fiberglass window boxes that use this special clip system.

You do not need flashing if you keep the window box away from the side of the house ever so slightly. Water problems happen when you install a window box against the side of a house so no air can get between the box and the side wall of the house.

Wet OSB Should be Usable

Posted on by Tim Carter

Dear Tim: I have some 4x8 sheets of 7/16" OSB that I have been storing pending the construction of a private 10'x20' storage shed. The OSB got wet and appears to be waterlogged. It is holding together though quite well, and not breaking up. Will it be usable as sheathing for wall and roof construction and will it dry out? Thanks, Dean.

Dear Dean: The OSB board will indeed be fine if you are sure that it is not falling apart. It is actually made with special glues that can get wet repeatedly. I suggest you let them dry in a shaded area, not in direct sunlight, and do so as soon as possible.

Exhaust Fans – Installation Tips / Kitchen and Bath

Posted on by Tim Carter

Installation Tips

I know this sounds crazy, but be sure to carefully follow the instructions that come with your fan. The single biggest reason for problems with exhaust fan installations is failure to follow directions. It only takes five to 10 minutes to read instructions.

Be sure to use the recommended ductwork. Don't mix and match sizes, as you will affect the static pressure load on the fan!

For kitchen exhaust fans, be sure to use metal ductwork! Tape all joints with high quality duct tape. Fires are a real possibility.

Try to locate fans so that the duct run is as straight and short as possible. Remember, a 90 degree bend or elbow is often equivalent to 10 linear feet of duct run. Most fans have a limit to the total length of duct. Pay attention to this number!

Each exhaust fan has a discharge port where the exhaust air leaves the fan. This discharge port may be three, four, five or six inches in diameter. Do not, on your own accord, reduce the size of the duct between this port and your exterior termination cap.


I have found that it is often best to vent fans and dryers through the roof. I urge you to watch this video of mine to see how easy it is to install the correct vent-cap flashing on a roof. Have no fear - if done right you will have no leaks.

Posted in Kitchen, Ventilation | 6 Comments

Home Humidity Needs Balance

Posted on by Tim Carter

Overdoing it - Too Much Humidity Creates Problems

I have a humidifier attached to my forced air heating system. It is a neat device. Many people have them. Every time the furnace turns on, a little electronic switch opens a small water valve. Water flows over a pad through which air flows. The water evaporates from this pad into the air. BINGO! The humidity starts to rise inside your home.

Well, sometimes - and this has happened to me - you can get too much humidity. I have gone to bed with everything just fine. The furnace was humming and the humidifier working just fine. I wake up and it looks like someone turned on a lawn sprinkler inside my house near every window. Water is running down the windows and pooling on the floor! I usually run around cleaning up saying, "We've had a major malfunction. All engineering personnel report to the quarter deck immediately!"

The cause of the problem is easy to identify. Two things possibly occurred at the same time: the inside relative humidity was climbing and/or the outdoor temperature level dropped. Usually it is the outside temperature drop that causes the problem. The inside temperature of the window glass drops as the outside temperature drops. The water vapor in the air begins to condense as the temperature of the glass drops.

Hidden Problems

If you have had water condense on your windows like me, you may have had more serious problems. There is a good chance that water condensed on hidden, cold wall or attic spaces. Remember earlier we talked about air leaking into and out of your house? Well, those places where it is leaking out may be saturated with water. Recently I had a caller to my radio show tell me about basement fiberglass insulation that was saturated with water. The insulation was up against the band board (rim joist) just above the foundation. This framing lumber has a direct connection to the cold siding outside.

It transmits this cold into the basement. Just like a cold can of soda or beer begins to sweat in the summer humidity, so will this rim joist inside. But, what happens if this is going on inside the walls of your house where you can't see? How about your attic? These are all possibilities. Wood rot, mildew, etc. can become a real threat.

Maintaining a Balance

If you have a humidifier, or plan to purchase one, you need to pay attention to outdoor weather. If the temperature is forecast to drop over a period of hours, you may wish to turn down or limit the amount of humidity you are introducing into your air.

Many manufacturers recommend that you adjust your humidifier to a setting just before any fog would appear at the edges of a window. Remember, this fog will appear at different outdoor temperatures and different indoor relative humidities. It is not easy to do! There is no one setting that will work for all outdoor temperatures. Plus, if you have a programmable indoor furnace thermostat the problem gets worse! At night, you probably have the thermostat set itself back 5 to 7 degrees. Well guess what? This will cause the indoor relative humidity to rise in and of itself with no adjustment at all to your humidifier. Maintaining proper indoor humidity is not easy.

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