Door Hinges Video

Do you have a door that closes by itself? Or will not stay open? Well, those problems are easy to diagnose and solve. Start at the top hinge. Check that the screws are tight. Tighten them a half turn or a full turn. That may all that is required to solve your problem.

If that does not solve the problem, look at the middle screw on the jamb side of the top hinge. Remove that screw and replace it with a longer (about 2") screw. This will pull the hinge back into the rough lumber behind the door jamb.

If the door does not close properly, the hinge may not be recessed deep enough in the wood. Remove the hinge and gently remove some of the wood from the door jamb. Use a wood chisel or a razor knife to remove the wood.

What about that door that closes on its own? Remove the hinge pin and strike it with a hammer to put a mild bend in it. Put it back in the door hinge. This increased friction will keep the door open. Start with the middle pin. If that does not work, try it on all three hinge pins. That should provide enough resistance to keep the door open.

Remember, solving door problems is easy. Just look at all the parts and work on each section until the door problem is solved.

Stainless Steel Screws Video

Remember that outdoor project you did? That deck or kids swing set? Where you had to fastener two pieces of wood together. You might have used nails as fasteners. That nail might have started pulling out of the wood already. Or started rusting.

There are nails and screws that can be used that hold better and are rust-proof. Galvanized nails with a ring type shank have great holding power. There are galvanized nails with a spiral shank also. If you use galvanized screws, be sure they have a coarse thread. Be sure these nails or screws are hot dipped galvanized.

Another alternative is stainless steel screws. It has several features that make it superior to galvanized nails. First, it has a self-drilling tip. Second at the end of the threads, it features a knurled edge that drills a hold for the screw shank so it does not split the wood. Additionally just under the screw head, it has little teeth that create a countersink for the screw head.

Use stainless steel screws on your project for better holding power and no rust.

Construction Scaffolding Video

Construction Scaffolding

Scaffolding is a great tool for certain outdoor projects. It allows you to create a nice wide, flat, stable working platform. Ladders limit your work area width. Scaffolding can provide a wider working area up to 10 feet wide.

The frames and cross braces slip together without the use of tools. Scaffolds must be to set level and plumb. Use large blocks of wood under the legs to accomplish this. Never set a scaffold leg on the soil without the blocks. The weight of the scaffolding and your weight could drive the legs into the soil, causing the scaffolding to tip over.

Stacking sections on top of one another can create a high working platform to reach your chimney and roof. You can rent scaffolding from tool rental stores or from scaffolding specialty shops. Many will delivery it to your project.

If you don't like working on a ladder, get some scaffolding. Safer, stable platform and easy to use.

Wood Cutting Tips Video

Cutting a piece of wood to an accurate length is simple if you following these steps. Check your tape measure to ensure that the hook is straight and not bend. Dropping a tape on a hard surface can cause the hook end to bend. Use flat nose pliers to straighten the hook if required.

Mark your cut length with an arrow mark. Then use a framing square to draw your cut line through the center of the arrow tip. Place an "X" on the side that you did not measure. This will indicate the side that the saw should shim. When cutting with your circular saw, be sure the saw blade stays on the side with the "X". Cutting down the center of the line or on the side without the "X", will make your cut piece of lumber too short.

Saw cuts are easy if you have an accurate tape measure and stay on the right side of the line.

Cordless Drill Driver Video

Do you have a standard electric drill around the house? And a screw gun? These are usually corded power tools. The electric cords get in the way. There are chuck keys attached to the cords. What a mess!

The new cordless drill drivers eliminate the messy cords and chuck keys. This cordless power tool does the functions of both a drill and a screw gun. These tools feature two speeds and forward and reverse.

The clutch collar allows you to preset the screw driving depth. The lower numbers on the collar means the screw is not driven as deep. There is also a setting for drilling.

With an additional battery, you can switch batteries when the first one dies and continue on with your project. Accessory kits are available with mounted drill bits and screw driver bits. Insert one of the bits into the tool, hold the drill chuck collar and turn on the power. This will tighten the chuck without the use of a chuck key.

These tools come in a variety of power options. The 18 volt or 24 volt models are for the serious do-it-yourselfers or contractors. The smaller and light 14.4 volt models are for those that only do an occasional job or weekend project.

Three Way Switch Video

Three way switches allow you to control a light from two different locations. Turn the light on in one part of the room and turn it off from another section of the room.

A 3 way switch is different from an ordinary light switch. A regular light switch has two screw connections on it, plus the green ground screw. A three way light switch has 3 screws plus the grounding screw. The fourth screw is painted black. This is the connection where the power comes into the first switch. In the second switch, the black connector is where the power goes out to the light switch.

Make sure when bending the loops in the wire, you bend the loops in a clockwise direction. When attaching the wire loop to the screw, the loop will close as the screw is tightened.

The wiring circuit shows the incoming cable from the circuit breaker panel. It has 3 wires. The black wire connects to the black screw in the first switch. The brass screw on the first switch gets connected to the red wire going between the two switches. The other brass screw gets the black wire going between the switches. The white wire gets connected to the white wire between the switches, as does the grounding wire.

On the second switch, the red wire gets attached to a brass screw, the black wire gets connected to a brass screw. The black screw connector on the second switch gets the black wire going to the light fixture.

This wiring may seem confusing if you don't do it everyday. If you are not sure, call an electrician.

Brick Wall Leakage

DEAR TIM: We live in a five story multi-family brick building built in 1903. the building is right off of Lake Michigan. Our east side gets intense winds, and has had a chronic water issue in a bay area with literally buckets of water coming into the north-facing bedroom window area and first east-facing window of two windows in the dining room.

These two windows are on a bay corner of our building, with the east windows indented between the north and south windows to bedrooms. The fifth floor has water on the ceiling near their east window but no other water damage. The fourth floor has no problems. The third floor tenant has ceiling damage above the east window and needed to put a plastic shunt from above the window into a large garbage can to collect water during storms. She also has water coming in, not quite as much, into her north-facing bedroom window.

This water damage is relatively new (at least we think, and has gotten worse over the last year). The second floor has had CHRONIC WATER for over ten years, with a little respite after tuck-pointing. The second-floor tenants get significant water in the same two windows as the third unit and are also starting to get ceiling damage. The first-floor unit has the worst problem -- but it is similar in structure to three and two.

We have had our walls regularly tuck-pointed and the bay ground out and repointed, but it hasn't solved the problem. We had our windows glazed and then redone because our tuck-pointers felt the way the glazing was done wasn't right. We had the sills in some of the windows reset and are considering having unit owners replace their north facing windows as a potential culprit.

These windows were replaced in the past to solve the problem (over 15 years ago), but no one recalls how well that helped. The second-floor tenants replaced their window, but it didn't correct the problems.

We have had our parapet wall on the bay rebuilt about ten years ago and a new roof put on also about eight years ago. At that time we took off a lot of tar and roofing materials to re-expose our brick so it could breath and had our interior parapet wall retuck-pointed too. The coping tiles were looked at, and some were sealed -- but that didn't help either. Our regular tuck-pointers can't figure it out and the second "water whisperer" tuck-pointer/builder company also tried a few things but it hasn't corrected the trouble.

Our tuck-pointers now think we should put a sealant on the wall, because they think the water is coming through the bricks. Given the amount of water we get I think this is improbable as we've sprayed down the wall and not been able to recreate the water effect. I wonder if there might be a corner on our flat roof where water is collecting and going down, but everything looks intact. Also, at some point over 15 years ago, and before my time in the building, a sealant (looks like a mortar type seal, but no one recalls what it is) was put on the wall. It is now peeling off at points but the wall has been tuck-pointed actively (every year or two). We have thrown a lot of money, time and effort at this wall and are not sure what to do. Can you HELP? Karen D., Chicago, IL

DEAR KAREN: I am convinced you are a victim of wind-blown rain that is squeezing through the contact zone where the mortar touches the brick. It is a known fact in the industry that this happens.

Note the small vertical crack next to the center brick. PHOTO CREDIT: Roger Henthorn

Note the small vertical crack next to the center brick. PHOTO CREDIT: Roger Henthorn

As for the volume of water, you would be shocked how much water is hitting your building during a severe wind-blown rain. You were not able to recreate the leak with the hose, because you were lacking the pressure caused by the wind.

Imagine what happens when each rain drop slams against the brick. Each droplet is like a miniature hammer. It applies pressure to the water that had just hit moments before. Each subsequent drop drives the cumulative water deeper and deeper into the brick.

To prove wind-blown rain is the cause, note what happens when you get several very gentle rain showers that fall pretty much straight down from the sky. My guess is you will see no leakage.

The sealant is indeed the solution. You need to apply the absolute best silane / siloxane water repellent to the entire exterior of the building. You may need two coats. Some of these sealers must be applied in two thin coats separated by a very short amount of time. If the first coat dries, the second coat is repelled by the first coat. Whatever product you decide to buy, you must read the instructions and monitor the contractors so they apply it exactly as is indicated by the manufacturer.

Column EM0050

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