Copper Fittings With Solder Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

There has been some changes in the process of soldering copper pipe and copper pipe fittings. Normally, you need some solder, soldering paste, sandpaper to clean the copper tubing, and a wire brush to clean the inside of the pipe. But, the solder is the most important component.

The new copper fittings eliminate the need for that roll of solder. They have the solder built-in the fitting! There is a small ring in the fitting where the solder is located. Just clean up the inside of the fitting and use the sandpaper to clean the outside of the pipe. Then apply the flux to both pieces, slide them together and apply the heat. When you see the solder coming out of the fitting, you are done. It's just that easy.

How to Solder Copper Pipe Video

Posted on by Tim Carter
solder copper

Solder copper - You do this when you melt solid solder and allow it to flow into the tiny gap between the tubing and the fitting. The red arrows point to the silver-colored solder. This popular video was shared with my readers in the  March 23, 2014 Newsletter. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

You solder copper in seconds if you have clean copper, plenty of heat, some flux and no-lead solder. Heat the tubing and fitting enough so the solder melts with the torch away from the tubing and fitting.

Revised February 2018

Solder Copper Tubing In Seconds

You solder copper using a propane torch, flux and no-lead solder. You can use a torch that has mapp gas or even acetylene. Plumbers use acetylene because it burns hotter and they can get more work done faster.

Related Links

Soldering Copper Water Lines

Ten Easy Steps To Solder Your Copper Tubing and Water Lines

Clean Copper Is Key

You must clean the copper you intend to solder. Use abrasive cloth or plumber's sandpaper to make the copper look bright. A special round wire brush cleans the inside of copper tubing fittings.

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers if you're too timid to try to solder yourself.

Mix Up the Flux

Mix up the solder flux or paste in case it has separated. Take the solder paste brush and apply the solder flux onto the pipe and inside the fitting.

Assemble the parts to be soldered and heat up the torch. Acetylene or propane soldering torches work great.

Apply the torch to the joints for about ten seconds. Once the joint is hot, remove the torch and touch the solder to the joint. The heat in the pipes should be enough to make the solder flow into and around the joint.

If the solder doesn't melt after touching it to the copper for two seconds, pull the solder away and re-heat the tubing and fitting with the torch for an additional ten seconds.

Clean Off All Flux Residue

Once finished, use a rag to clean up the joint. Be sure to remove any excessive flux. Flux left on copper will corrode the pipe and cause a water leak.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers if you're too timid to try to solder yourself.

This video was featured in the May 14, 2013 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Toilet Flange Installation Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Due to technical issues, this video is not currently available for viewing.

The toilet flange must be installed on top of the cement board just before the ceramic tile goes in place. It is critical how it is mounted. Mark a line across the flange where the toilet bolts come up. Install this flange so the mark is exactly parallel with the wall. This will ensure that the toilet is square with the wall.

Toilet Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Toilet Video

The tank is the business end of the toilet. It all starts in there. The water is stored in the tank until the handle is tripped. The handle opens the flapper valve, allowing the water to flow into the bowl. As it leaves the bowl, the water splits and goes to the water siphon jet hole and to the holes under the rim.

The waste water exits the bowl through the colon and through a passageway before leaving the toilet. That concludes Toilet 101. Tim's flushed with excitement!

Radiant Barrier Insulation Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Due to technical issues, this video isn't currently available for viewing.

Radiant barrier chips are plastic chips that are coated with a highly reflective coating. They reflect heat back to its source. So in the summer, it reflects the heat from the sun back out of the attic. In the winter, the heat is reflected back down into the house. They are very effective.

A powered blower, much like a leaf blower, sucks the chips from a cardboard box and blows them into the attic. You want to achieve a layer of 7 - 8 layers of barrier chips. The advantage of this is if the top layer gets covered with dust, which blocks its reflective ability, the lower layers will continue to reflect the heat.

It is a great barrier insulation and is very easy to install.

Related Column: Radiant Barrier Chips Save Money

Exterior Door Insulation Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

The new exterior has been hung and it is time to insulate it. The gap between the door jamb and the framing has to be filled. Tim uses fiberglass insulation on the inside of the door and spray foam insulation on the exterior. The spray foam insulation should be one that is flexible. So will prevent the insulation from squeezing the door as the foam expands. If it would squeeze to much, it could affect the operation of the door. Only fill the gap about half way. As the urethane insulation cures, it will fill in the rest of the gap.

Once the spray foam has cured, seal the gap between the door jamb and the sheathing. The sticky flashing tape, used under the door, can be used to seal this gap. Only bring it out about a 1/4" onto the door frame. This will be covered by the trim around the door. This will keep any water from getting behind the door trim and into the house. If the spray foam expanding out past the edging, use a razor knife to cut it flush with the door jamb. You may have to fix the flashing tape if too much foam oozes out.

Now it is time to install the fiberglass insulation on the inside of the door. Rip some fiberglass insulation into strips that are slightly longer then the gap to be filled. Push it into place with a wood shim, but not pack it too tight! If desired, you can tape over the fiberglass filled gap with masking tape to block any additional air from coming in.

Replace the wood trim around the door and your exterior door project is ready for use.

This is the third of three videos relating to Exterior Door Removal, Installation and Insulation. Below are the links to the other videos in this series.

 

Click here to watch the Exterior Door Removal Video

 

 

Click here to watch the Exterior Door Installation Video

Exterior Door Installation Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

During one of Tim's FREE ON-DEMAND RADIO SHOWS, he recalled this video. Click here to read why he recalled this particular video.

Now that the old exterior door has been removed, it is now to install the new door. Follow these steps to make the job easy. First, be sure to check that the door will be at the right height to match the interior finished flooring. Be sure it is not installed on the subfloor level. Install a piece of plywood, if required, to raise the door to the finished floor height.

A flashing is required to keep water off the piece of wood the door will sit on and the floor joints. We want to keep the water outside. Use a self-adhesive waterproof flashing to cover the area under the door. Don't forget to seal the corners where the walls meet the floor. Be sure the last piece of flashing tape hangs over the exterior edge of the wood. If it is flush, water can get under the flashing. By overlapping the exterior of the door mount, water will run off and not into the house.

Once the flashing is installed, check the door opening for level. The sill have to be level so the door frame will fit properly and the door will operate smoothly. Set the door in place to check the fit. Helpers will be needed to tilt the door back and up into place. You can use some shims to hold the door temporarily in place. Check the reveal on the inside of the door and check the opening and closing of the door.

If the door is hung properly, start nailing it into position, checking the reveal as you nail it. The installation instructions should indicate how and where to place the nails and the shims. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions. Place the shims in the proper locations and nail the door in place.

Once all the shims are in place and the door securely nailed, it is time to insulate the opening and put the trim back up. View the last video of this series for insulation tips.

This is the second of three videos relating to Exterior Door Removal, Installation and Insulation. Below are the links to the other videos in this series.

 

Click here to watch the Exterior Door Removal Video

 

Click here to watch the Exterior Door Insulation Video

Gutter Guard Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Gutter Guard Video

Important Author’s Note Update: Since this column was written, I have discovered at least two other gutter guards that sport the micro-mesh filtration screen. Testing of these Micro-mesh guards began early Spring of 2008. The results of the test are in! After 10-years of testing various types, a winner has been declared! Click for the gutter guard I installed on my house - Gutter Guard Test Results.

Springtime is the time to clean your gutters after a winter of leaves, broken branches, pine needles and those tree helicopters. Besides clogging your gutter, some of these items will clog your gutter guards. Look for gutter guards that are easy to install and easy to remove.

Gutter Guard

This gutter guard has been undergoing testing for ten months. So far it has done very well. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Some gutter guards have solid tops making them hard to work with. Others have small openings with will trap small leaves, twigs and acorns.

The latest plastic gutter guard is flexible, so it is easy to remove and reinstall. Gutter guards are also available in aluminum. Be sure to purchase one with the features you require.

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE for FREE & FAST BIDS from local companies that can install micromesh gutter guards.

Consider purchasing a micromesh product from Amazon.com and having your local handyman install them for you. CLICK the photo below for just one of the micromesh products I discovered on Amazon:

Micromesh Gutter Guard

There are many micromesh gutter guard products. You can save LOTS of money putting them on yourself. CLICK ON THE IMAGE to see how low-cost they can be.

Soldering Copper Pipe with Ball Valves Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

If your remodeling job requires that a water pipe be shut off or relocated, don't just cap it off. Solder a ball valve into the line. This will allow you shut the water off and reconnect the sink easily without having to shut off all the water. You will have to remove a short section of the copper pipe to make room for the valve. This is normally about 1-1/4".

Cut the pipe, clean both ends and the inside of the fitting, flux it and solder it in place. Then you will be ready to keep moving forward on the kitchen remodeling project.

Once the pipe is cool to touch, take a rag or a paper towel and wipe the area soldered to get all the flux off. If you don't, the flux will corrode the copper pipe over time and cause a leak.

Wet Dry Vac Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Shop vacs can be used to clean up messes, soak up water, clean out the car and for rough construction projects if you are creating a lot of saw dust. If you are the one guy in the neighborhood that has to have the fanciest model, check this one out.

Instead of the standard on/off switch, this one has a four position switch. It has the standard on switch, plus a secondary on switch. This one powers a receptacle that is hooked to another tool that might be the source of the dust. This ensures that both the power tool and the vac are turned on at the same time.

The third switch position is for a self-cleaning mechanism for the filters. That is pretty incredible.

How many times have you been pulling vac around by its hose and it has come disconnected? This model has a twist lock suction hose. You can pull it around and it will not come disconnected from the hose.

This particular shop-vac comes with all the attachments - crevice tool, different wands, and even a squeegee tool. Everything you need to clean up that mess in style.