Window Film – It Works Well

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: The floor to ceiling windows in my new house are beautiful, but I feel like a turkey in an oven when the sun streams through them. It seems as if my fabulous oriental rugs are fading before my eyes. Will the window film products keep me comfortable? Do they really stop fading in carpets, drapes and furniture? Are these products do-it-yourself friendly? Sally P., Chicago, IL

DEAR SALLY: Solar radiation that comes through unprotected glass can be intense. I know this from all of the years of installing new windows on sunny days. If you think you have it bad, travel to the sunny southwest or southeast USA where solar heat gain is a serious issue. The window film industry is highly advanced and there are any number of window film products that will work to control heat gain, heat loss, ultraviolet (UV) infiltration and common glare.

window films

Here is a fan pack of the many different window films that are available. There are several manufacturers that make very high-quality films. Photo by: Tim Carter

The window film industry is one of those happened-by-accident stories. Back in the 1960's a person working for a greeting card company made several thin plastic films for a 25 year anniversary card series. He held the silver colored film up to a window to view it and noticed that it blocked significant amounts of heat energy. The window film industry was born!

Different metals are actually vaporized or sputtered onto thin polyester films. These metals work to reflect heat back to its source. Different amounts and types of metal can be applied to the films to achieve different heat blocking levels of performance. There are many different types of heat blocking window films. This allows you to choose one specific to your needs.

Special factory applied adhesives that do not distort visible light are used to attach these films to perfectly clean glass. The UV protection offered by the films is accidental. The films must be treated with a special chemical so that UV radiation doesn't breakdown and discolor the films. Old fashioned or low quality adhesive tape that yellows and becomes brittle is a good example of what UV rays will do to plastic films that don't have this special ingredient.

Colored window films can also be purchased. The color is actually imparted into the polyester film or adhesive with a dye. Some window films are one single layer while other specialized films can have up to 3 layers. The multi-layered products do a great job of protecting the ultra-thin metallic coatings.

The window films will slow down but not stop the fading process. Approximately 40 percent of fade problems can be attributed to UV radiation. The remainder is actually caused by visible light, heat, and components in the air. Your fabrics and carpets will continue to fade, but the window films do a swell job of retarding this process.

Window film installation is not a do-it-yourself project. Certain window films can not be applied to certain types and sizes of windows. Large expanses of glass can be subjected to extreme thermal stress if the wrong film is applied to a window that is too big. Some films should not be applied to clear glass thicker than 3/8 inch. Windows that are in concrete, solid aluminum or steel frames can sometimes cause problems. In other words, a professional needs to look at your windows and advise you as to what film can be safely installed on your glass.

Furthermore, the glass must be cleaned professionally for the films to be invisible once installed. Bubbles, wrinkles, and other imperfections can become a reality if an untrained person begins to install these special window films.

The window films can save you money in the long run. Most of them can be professionally installed for between $5 and $10 per square foot. Because the film colors are highly consistent, you might want to do a room or side of your house at different times if cost is an issue.

Companion Articles:  Window Film,  Window Films,  Window Film FAQ, Window Film Companies

Column 267

Strip Finishes Off Decks

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I really made a mistake. I applied a wood deck sealant several years ago that seemed great at the time, but it is now peeling! How can I remove this mess? What steps do I have to take to clean my deck? Should I power wash the stripper off the wood? Is there a product that will not peel but provide protection and beauty? Pam T., Hamlet, NC

DEAR PAM: Ouch! The pain isn't over yet as you now have to strip off the offending film former from your wood deck. The good news is that once removed and a penetrating synthetic water repellent is applied, your wood deck care problems will be minimal in the future.

Deck sealant products are available in two major groupings: film forming products and penetrating finishes. Film formers tend to look fantastic when applied. Some resemble highly polished furniture finishes. These products try to grab tenaciously to the surface of the deck lumber, but the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays and repeated expansion and contraction of the wood caused by moisture gain and loss eventually cause the films to break down and peel.

Penetrating water repellents are finishes that deliver wood protecting resins and pigments into the top layers of the wood's cellular structure. Many of these finishes surround the wood fibers at the surface and do a decent job of repelling water and sunlight for several years. The best synthetic resin water repellents can provide protection and beauty for up to 3 years on horizontal wood surfaces.

To remove your existing film former deck product, you will need to use a stripper. Some wood deck strippers contain a chemical called methylene chloride. These are super powerful and should only be used with care. You need to protect all skin surfaces and avoid breathing the product's fumes. You may find other strippers that contain caustic chemicals like sodium or ammonium hydroxide or sodium metasilicate.

cleaning wood deck

Oxygen bleach (see link below) is deep cleaning this wood deck. The bad film forming finish was previously removed with a stripper.

Never mix these products with any other solution, chemical or chlorine bleach. You must neutralize the wood surface after using caustic strippers. Do this with lots of clear water or a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water. The least toxic deck strippers are NMP or d-Limonene based products. These are not too toxic, but can sometimes be slow acting.

Deck stripping can take time. It is best to start in a small area to see what methods and products work best. Avoid working with the products on hot, sunny, windy days. An overcast, cool day with a temperature near 75F would be my choice. You will achieve the finest results if you follow the directions on the label of the product. Do not use a pressure washer on wood decks. The powerful stream of water that comes from these professional tools can easily erode the soft light colored spring wood that lies between the dark colored summer wood grain bands in your wood.

EB015 Cleaning & Sealing Deck eBoo Cover

Once the deck is free of the film former, you should clean it with oxygen bleach. This non-toxic powdered product mixes with water and cleans decks that have been coated with penetrating finishes or even unprotected wood. The foaming oxygen ions aggressively attack mildew, algae and dirt buildup on the deck, but do not harm the wood deck, metal connectors or vegetation surrounding your deck. You simply mop on a solution of oxygen bleach, let it sit for 15 minutes, lightly scrub it with a brush, and rinse with a garden hose.

Do not use chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite) or any product that contains chlorine bleach to clean your deck! Chlorine bleach blasts apart the lignin or glue that holds together wood fibers, it removes the natural wood color, it kills vegetation, and it can corrode metal deck components.

If you apply a semi-transparent synthetic water repellent on your wood deck, you will be very satisfied. These products contain synthetic resins that are not food for mildew and algae. Many common and highly advertised deck sealants are made using natural oils such as animal fat, tung, vegetable and other oils that are food for mildew and algae. I have used a synthetic water repellent on my own wood front porch for the past 4 years and it looks superb. I know your deck will look the same!

Message from Tim:

Years ago while researching a column about cleaning decks, I discovered the wonders of Oxygen Bleach. It is perhaps the 'greenest' cleaner I know of as it uses oxygen ions to break apart stains, dirt and odor molecules. There are no harsh chemicals, and it works on just about anything that is water washable.

I decided to create my own special blend using ingredients made in the USA. In fact, the raw materials in the active ingredient are food-grade quality registered with the FDA. I call my product Stain Solver. I urge you to use it to help clean your deck. You will be amazed at the results!

Companion Articles:  Wood Deck Strippers,  Oxygen Bleach & Synthetic Water Repellents

Column 268

Metal Connectors Minimize Wind / Storm Damage

Posted on by Tim Carter
metal deck connector

The large metal connector is through bolted to the walls studs. the connector itself is connected to the foundation with the long black anchor bolt. Imagine how well these connectors hold instead of 16d nails!

DEAR TIM: I live in an area that gets just about every type of wind storm. Tornadoes have touched down very close to my existing home and I have been through several hurricanes. I am getting ready to build a new home. What can I do to hold it together as long as possible during violent windstorms? I can't build a basement. Is there a way to construct an internal shelter within my home that I can use in the event of a killer storm? Tracy G., Mobile, AL

DEAR TRACY: Anyone who watches the evening news knows that tornadoes, hurricanes and even severe thunderstorms can create winds that blast apart homes and families. Virtually every part of the United States can experience a weather event that can cause significant damage to a typical residential home. No one is really immune from a wind related personal or property loss.

Believe it or not, a majority of tornadoes produce wind speeds of 112 miles per hour or less. Residential homes that are constructed in strict accordance to most model building codes can withstand winds of this nature. The trouble is, it is virtually impossible for most building inspectors to insure that each and every nail, screw, anchor bolt, etc. has been put in exactly to code specifications.

The trick to making a wood framed structure extremely wind resistant is to create a continuous connection path from the roof rafters or trusses all the way down to the foundation. Many carpenters make an attempt to do this by using 16 penny hand driven nails fastened into all of the wooden framing components. If you want these nails to hold down the house in windy weather, they have to be driven in strict accordance with the building code. In many instances the wrong nails are used or the spacing between nails is too great.

Perhaps the best nails to use when building a home are ones driven by a pneumatic nail gun. These nails are coated with a special lubricating glue that melts as the nail glides into the wood. The glue hardens within seconds and produces greater holding power than an equal sized and shaped hand driven nail.

One of the best ways to attach walls, floors and roof structures directly to the house's foundation is to use readily available, inexpensive metal connecting plates and anchors along with approved structural nails. In a typical house, only the treated sill plate is firmly bolted to the foundation. There are numerous easy-to-install metal connectors that allow you to quickly bolt floors and walls to the foundation and then connect every other major wall, floor, or roof section to the components below. This provides a continuous metal connection path from the roof down to the foundation.

The cost for the nifty metal connectors in a typical house is less than $200. The labor to install them should average $300 or less. Although they may not keep your house together, if it suffers a direct hit from a very powerful wind storm, they may keep the roof on and the exterior walls from blasting apart long enough for you to seek shelter in a safe place.

Recent findings at Texas Tech University have shown that people who live in houses lacking basements can build interior storm shelters within their homes. The trick is to create a normal looking storage closet that consists of steel reinforced solid masonry walls, a poured-in-place concrete roof, vents to compensate for air pressure changes, and a well built pocket or sliding door that is made with several sheets of 3/4 inch plywood and covered with 14 gauge metal. This above ground shelter will resist wind blown debris, air borne missiles, etc. that can cause severe injury and/or death in a violent storm.

The size of an interior shelter depends upon how many people you want to place in it. It doesn't have to be extremely large, as most violent wind storms can last anywhere from several minutes to several hours in the case of a large hurricane. The point is you just need to be able to sit down and relax as much as possible during the storm. If you decide to build one, make sure it is stocked with several flashlights, a battery operated radio, and perhaps some bottled water and a first aid kit.

Companion Articles:   Interior Hurricane - Tornado Shelter, Fight Hurricane & Tornado Storms with Metal Connectors, Underground Tornado Storm Shelter, Tornado & High Wind Damage

Column 269

Bridges – Building in Your Backyard

Posted on by Tim Carter

bridge
DEAR TIM: There is a small 20 inch deep gully in my yard. This little valley prevents me from easily getting my riding mower to the other side of my lawn. Do you have any ideas on how to build a little bridge to span this ditch? What can I do to make sure it is not too bouncy? What is the best lumber to use? Doug R., Milwaukee, WI

DEAR DOUG: Building a miniature bridge is a really cool project. You don't have to be a structural engineer to design one since there is a very good chance you have existing bridges in your home. Anyone who has a basement, crawl space or a second story home walks across a bridge each time they pass through a room. I suggest that you study the underside of your existing floors before you build your outdoor bridge.

When you look at your existing floors you will see floor joists that span from one wall to another. In some instances they may rest upon a beam. The joists will probably be 16 inches on center. If you want a really stiff bridge, consider spacing the joists 12 inches on center. The depth or height of the joist is directly related to the length of the span. The greater the span (distance between supporting walls), the deeper a floor joist needs to be. You will incorporate these same principals in your simple bridge.

If the span of your bridge is exceptionally long, you can reduce bounce by installing vertical 4x4 posts under each bridge joist at the center of the span. These posts need to rest on 6 inch diameter concrete piers that extend to the frost line.

Because the bridge will be exposed to the weather, I recommend that you use treated lumber for the bridge joists. The decking for your bridge can be treated lumber or you can choose to use construction heart redwood or cedar decking for a more finished look.

The width of your bridge is important. Measure the width of your riding lawn mower with the most cumbersome accessories attached to it. You want to be sure the bridge is wide enough to accommodate your machinery without clearance concerns. A bridge 60 inches wide should work fine in most instances. A 4x4 curb should be incorporated at each edge of the bridge. Keep this in mind as it will reduce the overall operating width of the bridge by approximately 7 inches.

I would build the bridge just like a traditional wood subfloor. This means that a rim joist or band board is nailed to the ends of the bridge joists. This framing member keeps the joists from falling over like a house of cards when you walk or ride over it. It also allows you to build the frame for the bridge in the yard and drop it into position with the help of several friends.

The ends of the bridge joist should rest upon steel reinforced poured concrete grade beams. These grade beams need to be 6 inches wide, 8 inches thick, and as long as the bridge is wide. I like to dig two post holes under each beam that extend down to the frost line. The concrete flows into the holes at the same time as you pour the beams. These monolithic bridge foundation supports will prevent your bridge from shifting or twisting as you drive across it.

Before you pour your grade beam, be sure that you keep in mind the total height of your bridge joists and the decking. To permit a smooth transition from the grass to the bridge deck, the bridge joists ends and the grade beam must be below grade at each end of the bridge. Double check your measurements before you pour the concrete grade beam!

The decking for the bridge can be applied two ways. The simple way is to apply it perpendicular to the run of the bridge joists. If you do build the bridge 60 inches wide, you will be able to get 3 pieces of decking from each 16 foot length that you order. For a more decorative look, consider running the decking at a 45 degree angle to the bridge joists. This method will create more waste, but the diagonal look is stunning.

flat bridge

Companion Articles:  Bridge Building Tips, Bridge Joist Sizing, Bridge Planning

Column 270

The Dream Garage – It Has Lots of Room

Posted on by Tim Carter
Dream Garage

This is a nice detached garage. It could be bigger and it would really be nice if it had a garage floor drain. Photo Credit: Tim Carter

A Garage with Room

DEAR TIM: My existing garage is simply too small. I have the opportunity to build a new detached garage and want to do it right. Can you share some design tips that will allow me to construct a garage that will provide ample space for my two vehicles, riding lawn mower, bikes, a workbench, and miscellaneous other items? What other options can I incorporate that will make this the garage of my dreams? Sally M., West Point NE

DEAR SALLY: What a common problem! I thought I was doing the right thing when I made my own garage 24 feet deep by 30 feet wide. Was I ever wrong! Not only that, I made a couple of other silly errors that have become pet peeves of mine with respect to any garage space.

two car garage with custom doors

This is my daughter's garage. It would have been perfect had the garage been just 4 or 5 feet wider but the lot could not accommodate the extra width. The wall next to the left door should have been 5 feet instead of 3 feet. The same is true of the right door. The center wall between the two doors should have been 3 feet wide. Copyright Tim Carter 2024

When garages are empty, they appear to be huge. The vast open space is often the largest space in a person's home. Looks can be deceiving. The best way for you to solve your space problem is to do a quick analysis of what you need to store in your garage. Clean out your garage first. Discard accumulated trash and sell things you no longer need.

Arrange the remaining items in the manner you feel most comfortable. Undoubtedly you will see that things are still cramped. Calculate the necessary width and depth of the garage that will give you adequate walking room around and between all of your possessions. With these calculations in hand, you now have the new floor plan footprint of your garage in hand.

Is a garage addition in your future? Save time and money by using my Garage Addition Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

My guess is that you will come up with an interior size of 32 feet wide by 26 feet deep with 12 foot high walls. This garage will provide you with room to easily house all of the things you have plus give you the opportunity to construct a useful loft in one or more corners of the garage.

A common problem in most garages is not enough side clearance when you open a car door. Car doors seem to attract bicycles, garbage cans, shelving, and any other items you have placed along a side wall. Make sure that a garage door opening begins no closer than four feet from a corner. Most garage door openings (including mine!) start two feet from a side wall.

Garage doors can also be a problem. If you want a large double door, make sure it is 18 feet wide by 8 feet high. This door will give you the extra space you need in the event you have oversized vehicles. If you desire single doors and have a large sports utility vehicle (SUV), make sure at least one of the doors is at least 10 feet wide to accommodate the vehicle's mirrors. Large SUV's appreciate 8 foot high openings as well.

If your budget will permit it, consider using attic storage trusses. These roof framing members allow you to install all sorts of goodies up in space that typically goes to waste. They are made so that you can't fully stand up in the space, but can easily move about as there are no irritating truss cross members to get in your way.

Be sure to plan for your electric needs. Install two or three separate 20 amp circuits so that you have plenty of power for large tools. Do not forget to install both indoor and outdoor outlets adjacent to the garage door(s). This will eliminate the need for extension cords for many projects. Place outlets three feet off the ground for easy access. Be sure you have several outlets at your proposed workbench site. Most model and national codes require that all readily accessible outlets and circuits must have Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter protection.

Skylights are wonderful in a garage. They allow you to work inside on many days without the need for artificial lighting. Consider a through-the-wall fan to provide ventilation on hot days or while you work with finishes or chemicals that require vast amounts of fresh air. Mount this fan in such a way that it will pull air across the garage from a slightly cracked door or a fresh air intake port.

Insulate and drywall the interior surfaces of the garage when you build it, not later. If you wait until a later date, it may never get done and you will have to move everything out of the garage to accomplish the task.

If you want a book to help you design and build a really unique outdoor storage building, then The Backroad Home is a good place to start. This large format 96 page paperback book is a collection of cottage, cabin, barn, stable, garage, and garden shed plans. The thing I like about this book is that it may stimulate an idea for a unique styled outbuilding. If you like the design but the structure is too big, simply downsize the plan to fit your needs.

Companion Articles:   Garage Plans & Construction Costs,  Ideal Garage Plans - Tips,  Dream Garage Illustrations

Column 271

Stop Termites and Wood Rot with Borate Wood Treatments

Posted on by Tim Carter
borate products with sprayer

Borate Treated Wood | A simple hand-held sprayer and this tub of water soluble chemical is all you need to help make sure the wood in your home doesn't end up in the bellies of a bunch of termites.

Borate Treated Wood - Effective DIY Termite & Rot Treatment

DEAR TIM: My husband is afraid that termites are going to eat the new home we are getting ready to build. I find them boring. Is there some way we can treat the lumber so that the termites find it distasteful? I don't want to use a chemical that might smell or is harmful to my children, pets or myself. If such a product exists, can it be applied by a homeowner? Lynne H., Hilton Head Island, SC

DEAR LYNNE: Your ho-hum attitude may cost you big ti.......wait a minute, I get it - boring! Well, if you don't want those little devils to bore into the lumber in your new home, then you need to apply some of the handy chemicals out there that contain boron. Not only can you protect your house's lumber from wood boring insects like termites, beetles and carpenter ants, the borate chemicals also protect against fungi (brown, white, and wet rot) that cause wood decay.

When Did Borate Wood Preservative Start?

The application of borate solutions directly to lumber is not really new. These chemicals have been widely used in Europe, Australia, and New Zealand since the 1960s. The use of borate chemicals in the United States is beginning to grow for several reasons. The termite treatment industry in nearly a 2 billion dollar per year industry. This money is most often spent once the termites and other insects have already shown up for dinner at most homes. Applying borate solutions to lumber allows you to protect the wood before the unwanted guests arrive!

Are Borate Wood Preservative Products Powder or Liquid?

The borate chemicals can be either a powder or a liquid. Borate in powder form readily dissolves in water. The borate chemical is derived from naturally occurring minerals that are easily mined. Once the solution is applied to bare lumber, it can soak deeply into the wood. The depth and extent of penetration depends on several things: temperature of the lumber, lumber species and texture, the internal moisture content of the lumber, and the number of applications. Dry, rough lumber absorb borate chemicals readily.

What are the Advantages to Using Borate Wood Treatment?

There are numerous advantages to using borate chemicals on lumber. Although they are highly toxic to wood boring insects and fungi, they exhibit low toxicity to humans and other mammals. Once the wood has been treated and kept dry, the borate protection is extremely long lasting. What's more, the borates do not affect the appearance or workability of the lumber. The borates are non-corrosive to metal fasteners used in lumber, they are odorless, and they are extremely cost effective.

borate wood treatment

This is borate wood treatment. It's a powder you mix with water. You can have it delivered to your home in two days by going here.

Can Borate Treatment Leach Out of Wood?

The borate chemical treatment does have an Achilles' heel. As previously mentioned, you mix the powder with water in order to apply it to wood. This same water in the form of a plumbing, roof, or siding leak can, over time, re-dissolve and remove the borates from the lumber. If this occurs, the wood is susceptible to attack.

Should Borate Treated Wood be Used Outdoors?

The only place I'd used borate treated wood outdoors is the Atacama Dessert. It's not rained in this place for decades. Borate chemically treated lumber isn't readily used as an exterior wood preservative against insect and rot attack because rain will soak into wood, re-dissolve the chemical, and then remove it from the wood as more rain washes onto the surface.

Rain water and contact with moist soil will simply render the chemicals ineffective over time. To protect exterior lumber that has been treated with borates, you need to apply a penetrating water repellent on a regular basis. Since most lumber used in homes stays dry for the life of the home, water leaching shouldn't concern you too much.

Is Borate Wood Preservative a DIY Project?

You can apply borate chemicals to the wood in your new home yourself. It's best to apply it to lumber when the house is under roof and the framing lumber will receive minimal or no direct rainfall. You want to spray or brush on the borate solution before the lumber is covered over with insulation, drywall, or plastic. Consult with your builder as to how you can be worked into the construction schedule. With a couple of helpers and some hand pump sprayers, you can complete this job in no time. If possible, consider two applications on separate days.

Can I Apply Borate Chemicals to Existing Homes?

Borate solutions can be applied to existing homes. The problem, however, is that many wood surfaces have been covered by other building materials. Wood boring insects may be able to still inflict damage by finding their way into untreated wood.

When you go to buy borate chemicals, look for ones that are labeled and registered as wood preservatives. These are the ones that are classified by the Environmental Protection Agency as safe for use by the general public. Some borate chemicals are registered as insecticides and can only be applied by licensed and trained technicians.

Companion Articles:  Borate Chemicals for Wood Preservation,  About Borate Chemicals, Using Borate Chemicals

Author's Note: We've received other emails with similar problems or questions. Here's one from Aaron S. of Los Angeles, CA, regarding termite fumigation.

"My house was fumigated for termites covered with a tent etc. After removing the tent two days later, we entered our house but there was no odor of gas at all.  A while later, we saw insects, spiders, roaches etc. moving around. The fumigation company claims that they mix a substance with the gas so that it will not have an odor. My question: Shouldn't there be a gas odor and dead insects? We can't see the termites inside the wall, but we feel that if all the insects are still alive, probably the termites are not dead either. Please, let us hear you opinion. Thank you very much!"

Doing a little online checking, the chemical used during termite fumigation is targeting only termites. It will not kill spiders, ants, bed bugs or cockroaches. So Aaron, you may still see other insects moving around.

This column was the Tip Of The Week in the June 18, 2014 Newsletter.

Column 272

Electrostatic Air Filters

Posted on by Tim Carter
Electrostatic Air Filters

My electrostatic filter is on the left. It has a built-in carbon monoxide alarm. The black-plastic mesh is perhaps 10 or 15 layers and does a great job of stopping very fine dust particles. It is easy to rinse it with a garden hose. The filter on the right is a different high-performance rinseable filter.

Electrostatic Air Filters

DEAR TIM: I am tired of using those flimsy disposable fiberglass filters for my furnace. I feel it is bad for the environment. Unfortunately I can't afford an electronic air cleaner. Are there reusable air filters that do a great job of capturing dust? Has technology improved to a point where filters are able to capture and trap carbon monoxide? What should I look for when purchasing a reusable air filter? John R., Shelbyville, IN

DEAR JOHN: I share your feelings about those inexpensive fiberglass filters. My dislike grew even more once I found out that those filters are designed only to protect the furnace and air conditioning components. They are virtually useless in capturing visible and invisible dust and pollen particles.

Residential air filters are not made equal - not by a long shot. Different styles and types trap different sized particles. For example, the expensive built-in air filters that are connected to 120 volt household current do a swell job of grabbing very small particles like smoke. However, because of their internal design, larger sized particles can sometimes pass through these filters and become heavily charge with electricity. Once the particle leaves the duct work, it is immediately attracted to any object that has an opposite electrical charge. You can often see evidence of this when you see dust and dirt trails around supply duct registers.

Air Filters Video Transcript

CLICK or TAP HERE to get a full transcript of the above video.

Did you know you actually may be able to afford an electrostatic air filter? You can purchase very slick tribo-electrostatic reusable filters that slide right into the same slot that you place your existing disposable filter. They cost just a fraction of what you would pay for a built-in electronic filter setup. The photo to the right shows two different filters. The one on the left has a built-in carbon monoxide detector.

These washable filters are made from a variety of plastic and paper filter media that have their own built-in electricity. When air passes through the filters, the electrical charges increase dramatically and allow the filters to grab very small invisible particles that are floating in the air. Some of the pleated paper electrostatic filters are not washable. Once dirty, you are expected to throw them away.

You need to pay attention when you purchase one of these reusable filters. Furnaces and air conditioners are designed to handle a certain amount of resistance within the duct work system. Many furnace manufacturers do not want the overall resistance within the system to exceed .5 inch water column resistance. In many houses the duct work and the supply and return register grilles create approximately .2 inch resistance without any filter in place. Since the filter creates more resistance to air flow as it picks up and retains dirt and dust, you want to purchase a filter that has the least amount of initial resistance. Initial resistance is the resistance to air flow the filter creates when it is perfectly clean. You can purchase some electrostatic filters that have a low initial resistance of just .08 inch!

If you suffer from certain allergies, it is also possible to purchase these reusable filters with anti- bacterial protection. The anti-bacterial compounds are actually part of the plastics that are used to build the filter media. When you wash the filters on a regular basis, you do little to diminish the anti-bacterial protection. Tests have shown that the filters retain their ability to inhibit the growth of the bacteria, mildew and mold for up to ten years.

Technology has advanced a great deal with respect to electrostatic filters, but not as far as you would like. Although no electrostatic filter can trap carbon monoxide, you can buy certain filters that have a built-in carbon monoxide detector. Most furnace and air conditioning systems are designed so that all of the air in your house is transported through the filter every 15 minutes. This means a filter with a built-in detector can act as a fantastic early warning system in the event a furnace, hot water heater, or other appliance begins to emit poisonous carbon monoxide. The detectors in these filters have special sensors that minimize false alarms. In the event of real danger, these detectors sound an alarm that passes right through the duct work and alerts inhabitants in each room of the house.

The filters that have the carbon monoxide detectors are also equipped with a very handy feature that will save you money. They have a built-in electronic cleaning reminder tone that issues a friendly signal telling you it is time to clean the filter. If you choose to ignore the tone, the filter becomes more persistent and chirps at more frequent intervals. It works to your advantage to clean the filter as soon as possible. Clean filters allow your heating and cooling equipment to operate at peak efficiencies which lowers your utility bills!

Companion Articles:   Electrostatic Air Filters & Cleaning Tips, Carbon Monoxide Filter,  Electrostatic Filter Resistance Comparison

Column 273

Steam Showers and Baths – Simply Soothing

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I belong to a health club and really enjoy relaxing in the steam room. Is it possible to create one of those in my house? Is it as simple as installing the steam generation unit? What is the best way to construct a steam enclosure? What do you know about the different steam generating units? Lana M., Cookeville, TN

DEAR LANA: Whooaa! You are going to be the most relaxed person in your town if you have one of these wonderful steam baths in your house. What's more, I'll bet you will have the cleanest skin in town. There simply is nothing quite like a steam bath to soothe a stressed soul.

The actual installation of a steam generation unit is not that hard. It requires moderate plumbing and electrical skills and the ability to follow directions. Many units now have electronic controls that allow you to set the desired temperature and the duration of your steam experience. Certain models have controls both inside and outside the steam area. They are easy to operate and tell you exactly what the temperature is and how many minutes of pleasure are left of your steam experience.

The key to a completely successful installation lies in the actual construction of steam bath or shower area. Steam is visible water vapor and it can penetrate into walls, ceilings, and floors and create rot problems. The trick is to block the movement of this water vapor, collect the water as it condenses, and then return the water into the shower or tub drain.

I feel the best way to build a residential steam room is to model it after the one at your health club, but downsize it for your needs. A 4 foot wide by 6 foot long shower area is ideal. You need to build in a seat at one end, so you can relax while the steam surrounds you. The walls, floor and ceiling should be tiled covered. You can't have any exposed plaster or drywall. If you do, it will soon deteriorate as it is attacked by the high temperature steam.

The tile floor should be installed using a cement base that sits on top of a chlorinated polyethylene (CPE) water barrier. This water and vapor proof material will act as the collection pan for any water that tries to escape from the steam room. The walls and ceiling must be covered with a single piece of high performance cross laminated polyethylene vapor barrier that is at least 6 mills thick. This vapor barrier material is nailed to the wall and ceiling framing members and drapes over the turned up edges of the shower floor CPE liner.

The next item that is installed is one half inch cement tile backer board. I like to leave a one eighth inch crack between pieces and then caulk this crack with 100 percent silicone caulk. The ceramic tile should be installed using thinset mortar, not the pre-mixed organic adhesives. Thinset is simply a cement based adhesive that will withstand many years of steam exposure. The organic adhesives might succumb to the constant high temperature steam assault.

You can't use a standard shower door for a steam room. The doors must be custom fit to your opening so that when closed, no steam can escape the shower area. The major shower door manufacturers make decorative doors for this very purpose.

Steam Showers

Sizing a steam generation unit requires a little thought. Each manufacturer has several different sized units that are matched to the cubic feet of area in your steam enclosure, the type of wall surface and its construction, type of tub or floor, distance from the steam unit to the steam bath area, and whether the steam enclosure is adjacent to an exterior wall. It seems difficult, but the manufacturers have easy tables that guide you through the sizing process.

When selecting a steam unit, ask about the length of time it takes the steam to build within the room. Because of their internal design, some units make steam much faster than other units. Ask about the buildup of minerals on the internal components of the steam units. Some manufacturers have built their units so that they flush these minerals away at the end of each steam cycle. Read and reread the installation instructions. It is vitally important that you follow them to the letter to make sure the steam units work as designed.

Companion Articles: Steam Room Construction Tips, Steam Bath Unit Companies, Steam Bath Check Up

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Cooling With Mother Nature and Whole House Fans

Posted on by Tim Carter
attic fan whole house fan

The low-velocity attic fan has wonderful insulated hinged covers that help keep winter drafts from invading your home.

Whole House Fans

DEAR TIM: The house I am moving to does not have a whole house fan. I remember as a child that they provided lots of relief on many a summer's night. How do you make sure that the fan is sized correctly for the house? What do you need to do to maximize their ability to cool? Do you use them in conjunction with a central air conditioner? Is it tough to install a whole house fan? Sally M., Scotts Bluff, NE

DEAR SALLY: Whole house fans are really wonderful features if you want to take advantage of the air conditioning that Mother Nature provides for free. They cool your body just as a slight breeze does when you pop out of a swimming pool. The air moving across damp skin causes evaporation. As the water leaves the surface your skin it takes body heat with it and dumps it in the atmosphere. The net effect is that you feel cooler.

A whole house fan can create a breeze in just about every room of your house at the same time. After the sun goes down and the air temperature begins to drop, they can rapidly cool you and the objects inside your home by replacing hot, stale air with refreshing, cool air. A large sized whole house fan can replace all of the air in your house every two minutes. Smaller capacity fans will also deliver cool air into your home, but at a reduced rate.

Many of these fans move lots of air very quickly. The air movement is measured in cubic feet per minute (CFM). Whole house fans can be purchased that move anywhere from 1,000 to 8,500 CFM depending upon the fan type and the fan blade speed. Fans that move lots of air tend to use greater amounts of electricity and they make more noise.

There are two schools of thought when it comes to sizing these appliances. The high velocity method recommends that you attempt to achieve a total air exchange within the house every two minutes. That requires large fans sucking vast quantities of air through your windows and into and through your attic. The low velocity supporters feel that a lower CFM fan capacity will produce acceptable cooling. These low speed fans use less electricity than their big brothers and sisters. Some of them come with swell built in covers that save energy when not in use. They are also whisper quiet.

If you want a whole house fan to really cool you and your house, you need to control where the cool air enters your house. I suggest that you open windows in and around the rooms you are occupying at different times of the day and night. If you have windows open in only one room, the fan will create a virtual windstorm as air travels through the room and towards the fan. The trick is to open just enough windows so you get a breeze that comforts you.

It is mandatory that you install a timer switch with these fans. If you let the fan run through the night they can actually make you cold as they deliver very cool night air as you sleep. All manufacturers offer timers as standard features or as handy options.

Whole house fans and air conditioners should never be used at the same time. Air conditioning is usually turned on when heat and humidity become unbearable. Air conditioners are designed to lower the humidity in household air. This less humid air allows air to evaporate from your skin at a faster rate. If you air condition your house during the day and then turn on the whole house fan at night, you remove this dry air from your house. Use your air conditioner only when the whole house fan can't provide you with comfort.

Installing a whole house fan can be challenging. New installations require a separate electrical circuit and the possible installation of multiple roof vents to exhaust the vast amount of air that is being pumped into your attic. The instructions that come with whole house fans are very specific about the amount of attic ventilation space that is required in order to allow the fans to operate at peak efficiency. If you don't feel comfortable installing electrical lines, roof vents, and cutting holes into your ceilings, I suggest you hire a professional. If your house is constructed with prefabricated roof trusses be sure that no one cuts into a truss. Purchase whole house fans that are meant to be used with trusses.

Companion Articles:  Whole House Fan Installation Tips, Whole House Fan Sizes and Manufacturers,  Cooling Comfort With Whole House Fans

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A Walk Through Checklist Will Wake Up the Builder

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My husband and I are building a new home. It is nearly finished but the builder seems to be ignoring many small details that are not finished to our satisfaction. We are concerned that there may be significant defects that we are unable to identify. How can we protect ourselves? What is the best way to list all imperfections and nudge the builder to fix them? Becky D., Dallas, TX

DEAR BECKY: What a common scenario! It seems that many builders lose interest in projects as they near completion. The challenge of the job has long faded. They want to move on to a new, refreshing project. In many instances the builder fails to return phone calls and ignores repeated requests to complete all of the punch list items. There are several ways to protect yourself and insure that one way or another the job will get done to your satisfaction.

Let's talk first about money. It is your only true leverage when dealing with a builder. If you pay the builder for work that is unsatisfactory or not complete, you have become a lender. You hope that he will repay the loan by completing the work. All too often the builder defaults on this loan and leaves you high and dry. If your builder vanishes and you have withheld enough money to cover the cost of all repairing all defects, you can hire another builder to finish the job.

The bank or savings and loan that holds the construction loan or mortgage is not necessarily going to look out for you when it comes to this matter. You need to ask them early in the loan process if there is a way that money can be withheld at the closing to cover the cost of work that is unfinished or of poor quality. This sum of money that is held back is often referred to as an escrow account. After the closing takes place and the builder completes the work to your satisfaction, the bank or savings and loan releases the last bit of money to the builder. Not all lending institutions offer this service so it is vital that you check into this when you apply for a construction loan.

Approximately one week before the closing, you should schedule a walk-through inspection. This task should take you about 3 to 4 hours to complete. You need to inspect every square foot of the interior and exterior to locate defects, imperfections and things that don't work. You will need a flashlight, a small mirror, a detailed checklist, notepad and lots of patience. Proceed with a room-by-room inspection and note all imperfections. Operate every mechanical device, door, window, lock, appliance, faucet, etc.

It is very important to note the lack of cracks or defects in foundation walls, concrete surfaces, flooring, walls, ceilings, ceramic tile grout, caulking, etc. If a defect occurs in these areas after you have moved in, your inspection report will validate that the defect was not present at the time of the inspection. If there are indeed structural problems and the defect gets consistently worse, your written inspection report will be worth its weight in gold.

Don't try to do your own walk through inspection unless you are armed to the teeth with my 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed Walk Through Inspection Checklist!

Little things can cause big problems at a later date. For example, the tops and bottoms of all doors need to be painted or sealed to prevent warping and twisting. Your handy mirror will allow you to check these areas with ease. Listen as you perform the inspection. Do the floors squeak? Does the plumbing rattle when faucets are turned on or off?

Consider purchasing a copy of the building code that was in force at the time the house was built. Many items in the code are written so a lay person can understand them. The building inspector may not have the time to do as thorough an inspection as you may like. Check to make sure that the exterior grading, handrail heights, window glazing and mirrors all meet or exceed the building code. Do not close on your property unless all inspections are complete and a certificate of occupancy has been issued by the building department.

If you feel uncomfortable about overlooking defects during this inspection, it might be a great idea to hire a professional inspector. Many home inspectors belong to associations that require intensive training, written testing, and continuing education. These pros know exactly what to look for when inspecting a new home. Be sure the builder or his agent signs any walk through inspection checklist acknowledging the condition of the home at the time of the inspection walk through.

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