Steam Showers and Baths – Simply Soothing

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I belong to a health club and really enjoy relaxing in the steam room. Is it possible to create one of those in my house? Is it as simple as installing the steam generation unit? What is the best way to construct a steam enclosure? What do you know about the different steam generating units? Lana M., Cookeville, TN

DEAR LANA: Whooaa! You are going to be the most relaxed person in your town if you have one of these wonderful steam baths in your house. What's more, I'll bet you will have the cleanest skin in town. There simply is nothing quite like a steam bath to soothe a stressed soul.

The actual installation of a steam generation unit is not that hard. It requires moderate plumbing and electrical skills and the ability to follow directions. Many units now have electronic controls that allow you to set the desired temperature and the duration of your steam experience. Certain models have controls both inside and outside the steam area. They are easy to operate and tell you exactly what the temperature is and how many minutes of pleasure are left of your steam experience.

The key to a completely successful installation lies in the actual construction of steam bath or shower area. Steam is visible water vapor and it can penetrate into walls, ceilings, and floors and create rot problems. The trick is to block the movement of this water vapor, collect the water as it condenses, and then return the water into the shower or tub drain.

I feel the best way to build a residential steam room is to model it after the one at your health club, but downsize it for your needs. A 4 foot wide by 6 foot long shower area is ideal. You need to build in a seat at one end, so you can relax while the steam surrounds you. The walls, floor and ceiling should be tiled covered. You can't have any exposed plaster or drywall. If you do, it will soon deteriorate as it is attacked by the high temperature steam.

The tile floor should be installed using a cement base that sits on top of a chlorinated polyethylene (CPE) water barrier. This water and vapor proof material will act as the collection pan for any water that tries to escape from the steam room. The walls and ceiling must be covered with a single piece of high performance cross laminated polyethylene vapor barrier that is at least 6 mills thick. This vapor barrier material is nailed to the wall and ceiling framing members and drapes over the turned up edges of the shower floor CPE liner.

The next item that is installed is one half inch cement tile backer board. I like to leave a one eighth inch crack between pieces and then caulk this crack with 100 percent silicone caulk. The ceramic tile should be installed using thinset mortar, not the pre-mixed organic adhesives. Thinset is simply a cement based adhesive that will withstand many years of steam exposure. The organic adhesives might succumb to the constant high temperature steam assault.

You can't use a standard shower door for a steam room. The doors must be custom fit to your opening so that when closed, no steam can escape the shower area. The major shower door manufacturers make decorative doors for this very purpose.

Steam Showers

Sizing a steam generation unit requires a little thought. Each manufacturer has several different sized units that are matched to the cubic feet of area in your steam enclosure, the type of wall surface and its construction, type of tub or floor, distance from the steam unit to the steam bath area, and whether the steam enclosure is adjacent to an exterior wall. It seems difficult, but the manufacturers have easy tables that guide you through the sizing process.

When selecting a steam unit, ask about the length of time it takes the steam to build within the room. Because of their internal design, some units make steam much faster than other units. Ask about the buildup of minerals on the internal components of the steam units. Some manufacturers have built their units so that they flush these minerals away at the end of each steam cycle. Read and reread the installation instructions. It is vitally important that you follow them to the letter to make sure the steam units work as designed.

Companion Articles: Steam Room Construction Tips, Steam Bath Unit Companies, Steam Bath Check Up

Column 275

Cooling With Mother Nature and Whole House Fans

Posted on by Tim Carter
attic fan whole house fan

The low-velocity attic fan has wonderful insulated hinged covers that help keep winter drafts from invading your home.

Whole House Fans

DEAR TIM: The house I am moving to does not have a whole house fan. I remember as a child that they provided lots of relief on many a summer's night. How do you make sure that the fan is sized correctly for the house? What do you need to do to maximize their ability to cool? Do you use them in conjunction with a central air conditioner? Is it tough to install a whole house fan? Sally M., Scotts Bluff, NE

DEAR SALLY: Whole house fans are really wonderful features if you want to take advantage of the air conditioning that Mother Nature provides for free. They cool your body just as a slight breeze does when you pop out of a swimming pool. The air moving across damp skin causes evaporation. As the water leaves the surface your skin it takes body heat with it and dumps it in the atmosphere. The net effect is that you feel cooler.

A whole house fan can create a breeze in just about every room of your house at the same time. After the sun goes down and the air temperature begins to drop, they can rapidly cool you and the objects inside your home by replacing hot, stale air with refreshing, cool air. A large sized whole house fan can replace all of the air in your house every two minutes. Smaller capacity fans will also deliver cool air into your home, but at a reduced rate.

Many of these fans move lots of air very quickly. The air movement is measured in cubic feet per minute (CFM). Whole house fans can be purchased that move anywhere from 1,000 to 8,500 CFM depending upon the fan type and the fan blade speed. Fans that move lots of air tend to use greater amounts of electricity and they make more noise.

There are two schools of thought when it comes to sizing these appliances. The high velocity method recommends that you attempt to achieve a total air exchange within the house every two minutes. That requires large fans sucking vast quantities of air through your windows and into and through your attic. The low velocity supporters feel that a lower CFM fan capacity will produce acceptable cooling. These low speed fans use less electricity than their big brothers and sisters. Some of them come with swell built in covers that save energy when not in use. They are also whisper quiet.

If you want a whole house fan to really cool you and your house, you need to control where the cool air enters your house. I suggest that you open windows in and around the rooms you are occupying at different times of the day and night. If you have windows open in only one room, the fan will create a virtual windstorm as air travels through the room and towards the fan. The trick is to open just enough windows so you get a breeze that comforts you.

It is mandatory that you install a timer switch with these fans. If you let the fan run through the night they can actually make you cold as they deliver very cool night air as you sleep. All manufacturers offer timers as standard features or as handy options.

Whole house fans and air conditioners should never be used at the same time. Air conditioning is usually turned on when heat and humidity become unbearable. Air conditioners are designed to lower the humidity in household air. This less humid air allows air to evaporate from your skin at a faster rate. If you air condition your house during the day and then turn on the whole house fan at night, you remove this dry air from your house. Use your air conditioner only when the whole house fan can't provide you with comfort.

Installing a whole house fan can be challenging. New installations require a separate electrical circuit and the possible installation of multiple roof vents to exhaust the vast amount of air that is being pumped into your attic. The instructions that come with whole house fans are very specific about the amount of attic ventilation space that is required in order to allow the fans to operate at peak efficiency. If you don't feel comfortable installing electrical lines, roof vents, and cutting holes into your ceilings, I suggest you hire a professional. If your house is constructed with prefabricated roof trusses be sure that no one cuts into a truss. Purchase whole house fans that are meant to be used with trusses.

Companion Articles:  Whole House Fan Installation Tips, Whole House Fan Sizes and Manufacturers,  Cooling Comfort With Whole House Fans

Column 276

A Walk Through Checklist Will Wake Up the Builder

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My husband and I are building a new home. It is nearly finished but the builder seems to be ignoring many small details that are not finished to our satisfaction. We are concerned that there may be significant defects that we are unable to identify. How can we protect ourselves? What is the best way to list all imperfections and nudge the builder to fix them? Becky D., Dallas, TX

DEAR BECKY: What a common scenario! It seems that many builders lose interest in projects as they near completion. The challenge of the job has long faded. They want to move on to a new, refreshing project. In many instances the builder fails to return phone calls and ignores repeated requests to complete all of the punch list items. There are several ways to protect yourself and insure that one way or another the job will get done to your satisfaction.

Let's talk first about money. It is your only true leverage when dealing with a builder. If you pay the builder for work that is unsatisfactory or not complete, you have become a lender. You hope that he will repay the loan by completing the work. All too often the builder defaults on this loan and leaves you high and dry. If your builder vanishes and you have withheld enough money to cover the cost of all repairing all defects, you can hire another builder to finish the job.

The bank or savings and loan that holds the construction loan or mortgage is not necessarily going to look out for you when it comes to this matter. You need to ask them early in the loan process if there is a way that money can be withheld at the closing to cover the cost of work that is unfinished or of poor quality. This sum of money that is held back is often referred to as an escrow account. After the closing takes place and the builder completes the work to your satisfaction, the bank or savings and loan releases the last bit of money to the builder. Not all lending institutions offer this service so it is vital that you check into this when you apply for a construction loan.

Approximately one week before the closing, you should schedule a walk-through inspection. This task should take you about 3 to 4 hours to complete. You need to inspect every square foot of the interior and exterior to locate defects, imperfections and things that don't work. You will need a flashlight, a small mirror, a detailed checklist, notepad and lots of patience. Proceed with a room-by-room inspection and note all imperfections. Operate every mechanical device, door, window, lock, appliance, faucet, etc.

It is very important to note the lack of cracks or defects in foundation walls, concrete surfaces, flooring, walls, ceilings, ceramic tile grout, caulking, etc. If a defect occurs in these areas after you have moved in, your inspection report will validate that the defect was not present at the time of the inspection. If there are indeed structural problems and the defect gets consistently worse, your written inspection report will be worth its weight in gold.

Don't try to do your own walk through inspection unless you are armed to the teeth with my 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed Walk Through Inspection Checklist!

Little things can cause big problems at a later date. For example, the tops and bottoms of all doors need to be painted or sealed to prevent warping and twisting. Your handy mirror will allow you to check these areas with ease. Listen as you perform the inspection. Do the floors squeak? Does the plumbing rattle when faucets are turned on or off?

Consider purchasing a copy of the building code that was in force at the time the house was built. Many items in the code are written so a lay person can understand them. The building inspector may not have the time to do as thorough an inspection as you may like. Check to make sure that the exterior grading, handrail heights, window glazing and mirrors all meet or exceed the building code. Do not close on your property unless all inspections are complete and a certificate of occupancy has been issued by the building department.

If you feel uncomfortable about overlooking defects during this inspection, it might be a great idea to hire a professional inspector. Many home inspectors belong to associations that require intensive training, written testing, and continuing education. These pros know exactly what to look for when inspecting a new home. Be sure the builder or his agent signs any walk through inspection checklist acknowledging the condition of the home at the time of the inspection walk through.

Column 277

Lead Paint Problems

Posted on by Tim Carter

lead paint

Lead Paint Can Make you Sick or Kill You

DEAR TIM: I'm thinking of having extensive rehabilitation work performed on my home built in 1959. It will include both interior and exterior alterations. I have heard that lead poisoning can happen during remodeling work. Is there a possibility that my family and myself will be exposed to lead as the contractor works on my home? How can we determine if lead exists in our home? Cindy M., Hillsboro, OH

Lead-Based Paint Year

DEAR CINDY: Watch Out! Any house built before 1978 may have interior and exterior paint that contains lead. The farther back in time you go, all the way back to the 1800s, there's a very good chance that you'll discover lead paint inside and outside your home.

Where Can I Test for Lead Paint?

Walls, woodwork, and exterior trim could easily have original layers of paint or clear varnish from when the house was built. If so, there's a very high probability that your house is one of the estimated 29 million homes that are thought to contain lead danger zones.

Children, adults and pets are poisoned by lead each and every day somewhere in the USA. Lead is a sinister poison and can cause permanent physiological defects if it's allowed to accumulate in a person's body.

Lead Paint Poisoning 2000 Years Old

Humanity has known that lead is a poison for over 2,000 years. In 370 BC Hippocrates documented a sickness he labeled as lead colic. For many years, people ignored the wisdom of Hippocrates. The Romans used lead in their cookware and as a component in their spectacular waterworks system that supplied drinking water to Rome. One of the symptoms of lead poisoning is a gradual loss of taste. Perhaps this is one reason why certain Italian foods are spicy.

Lead Paint Inspection Locations

The lead that is found in most older homes is hidden in the paint and old varnish. Lead is an excellent pigment and helps paint hide what it is covering. It was used as a dryer in clear varnishes. Windows, doors and other places where you touch painted surfaces can be high hazard locations.

How Do I Get Poisoned by Lead Paint?

The lead is spread via dust that is created when the painted surfaces are scuffed, scraped, or sanded. Old fashioned double-hung windows that slide up and down can create fine dust on window sills. The opening and closing of doors can also create lead dust. Old painted furniture used for babies is especially dangerous as the lead actually has a slightly sweet taste to it. The lead contaminated dust usually passes into one's body from the fingers into the mouth.

How Much Lead is Dangerous?

It takes very little lead to cause severe physical problems. Lead seeks out and attacks the central nervous system.

When health officials measure lead in a person's body, they deal in increments of micrograms (one microgram equals one millionth of a gram). To put this in perspective consider a packet of artificial sweetener found on the average restaurant table. A single packet usually contains about one gram or 1,000,000 micrograms of artificial sweetener. Open a packet and pour the sweetener onto a colored piece of paper. Look at how small 1,000,000 micrograms actually is!

How Much Lead Intake is Fatal?

Imagine if you created a similar pile of pure lead dust. Since lead weighs far more than artificial sweetener, the pile would actually be smaller. If an adult male receives an acute intake of just 5,000 micrograms of lead - just 1/200th of this small pile of dust, he will most likely die in a very short period of time. It takes far less lead in a child or an adult to cause irreversible physical defects such as coordination problems, learning disabilities, seizures, kidney, heart and reproductive problems.

Are Contractors Required to Warn Homeowners of Lead Danger?

On June 1, 1999, a new Federal Law - Rule 406 (Part of the amended Toxic Substances Control Act) - went into effect. This law mandates that remodeling contractors who disturb more than 2 square feet of painted surfaces in houses built before 1978 must distribute a pamphlet developed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) titled Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home. (This was featured in the August 7, 2008 Newsletter.)

Go here to get up to speed about lead paint dangers in your home.

The contractor must also obtain a signed acknowledgment from all who receive the pamphlet. This acknowledgment must be kept on file by the contractor for a period of three years from the date it was signed. Houses that contain no bedrooms, housing for the elderly or disabled (providing a child under the age of 6 does not live in the building), emergency repairs and minor repairs involving less than 2 square feet of surface area are exempt from this Federal ruling.

How Do I Deal With Lead Paint Dust?

It is critical that you keep dust to a minimum during your project. Any demolition of old painted surfaces must be accompanied by a wet mister or spray to stop dust from spreading. Plastic enclosures need to be built to stop the transfer of dust to other parts of the house. Special wet / dry vacuums with high performance particulate air (HEPA) filters must be used for clean-up purposes. The remodeled areas need to be thoroughly cleaned each day.

How Do I Test for Lead Paint?

Lead can be detected by submitting samples of your paint to local laboratories that do analysis testing. Check with your local health department for these labs. The testing is usually very affordable. The lab will instruct you how to collect test samples. If testing shows that you have a significant amount of painted surfaces that contain lead, you may want to simply seal them with several coats of clear urethane or with a fresh coat of paint.

Lead poisoning can often be avoided if you keep surfaces clean of the lead contaminated dust. Use wet cleaning methods with detergents and disposable paper towels for final wiping and drying. Dispose of the towels so that the dust is removed from your home.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Many facts contained in this column were contributed by Jack L. Whitaker, Sr., Lead Risk Assessor - Ohio License #001644.

Companion Articles:  Beware of Lead Paint, Lead Poisoning Danger - Lead Paint, Free Lead Poisoning Hazard Information, Hepa Filter & Hepa Vacuum Manufacturers

Column 278

Vapor Retarders Will Stop Odors and Moisture

Posted on by Tim Carter
crawl space dirt

The dirt in this crawl space is covered with traditional clear poly. It can have thousands of pinholes and allow vast amounts of water vapor to escape up into your home.

Vapor Barrier in the Crawl Space

DEAR TIM: Our home is a hodgepodge of construction. We have a medium sized basement, a crawl space, and a part of the home built on a slab. The house always has a musty odor and damp feeling. I am constantly battling mildew on just about every surface. There is no water leaking into my home. Is this mustiness damaging my home? What is causing this to happen? Is there a way to eliminate and/or minimize it? Paula B., Culpeper, VA

DEAR PAULA: Have I got good news for you! Your mildew fighting days are going to be over very soon. Not only that, the air within your home will soon be dry and fresh smelling. Fortunately, much, if not all, of the work required to stop the musty odor can be done by yourself if you are willing to use a pump sprayer and wiggle around in the crawl space for a half a day.

The musty odor is caused by water vapor that is entering your home through the concrete walls, slab, and the dirt beneath your crawl space. The invisible vapor can elevate interior humidity levels that will easily support the growth of mildew and other microorganisms. If you stop the water vapor from entering your home, you can cause these tiny creatures to die of thirst.

It is important to stop water vapor movement in homes. If the water vapor comes into contact with wood surfaces that are cool or cold, the vapor turns into liquid water. This liquid water can accumulate inside of exterior walls and up in roof and attic spaces. If enough water is present, wood rot and decay can cause significant damage.

To stop the water vapor from entering the crawl space, I suggest that you install a high quality vapor barrier. Before you run out and purchase the standard 4 or 6 mil clear as shown in this photo or black polyethylene at the home centers or hardware stores, be aware that some of these products are often a single layer of plastic, are made from recycled plastic resins, and can contain fillers, pin holes and imperfections. Certain alkaline soils can actually degrade these plastic films.

A better choice might be high density cross laminated virgin polyethylene. These vapor barriers are made with two sheets of high strength puncture resistant virgin polyethylene that cross each other at right angles. The sheets are bonded to one another and stop virtually all water vapor movement. Special tape is available that allows you to effectively seal any seams where the plastic needs to overlap or be cut to fit around pipes, posts or other items that project from the soil of the crawl space.

If you want to install the vapor barrier in the crawl space professionally, you simply need to lap the material up the sides of the foundation walls. Apply strips of treated(ACQ) lumber at the top edge of the plastic. Use regular masonry nails to attach the strips to the foundation walls. Trim any excess plastic that projects beyond the wood strips. Apply a bead of standard caulk at the top of the wood strips to complete the job.

The concrete walls and floor in your basement and the remaining floor slabs in the house and garage can be sprayed with some unique water based chemicals. These products are basically a liquid water vapor that penetrate into concrete surfaces and block water vapor movement. Because they are water based, they can be safely sprayed indoors near furnaces or water heaters. Avoid the use of solvent based products indoors. These products produce vapors as they dry that represent a severe explosion hazard around any open flames or spark ignition appliances.

These liquid vapor barriers are often colorless. Once they dry, there is usually little trace of their presence. If you have rooms that are going to be re-carpeted soon, you can tear up the old carpeting, clean the floor and apply these chemicals before the new carpeting is laid. These high quality liquids and sheet vapor barriers can be found at specialty concrete and building supply businesses that sell products to contractors.

Author's Notes:

I received this email from Michael P, Cincinnati, OH. Here's how he helped with his crawl space problem.

"I live in Turpin Hills and wanted to thank you for your advice for sealing a crawl space. This is our third winter in our home and the basement is always much colder than previous basements from other homes. I did as you suggested and put heavy duty, thick plastic on the gravel and put doors on the opening of the crawl space. It's been a few weeks and I can see water droplets forming under the plastic. I may put a second layer of plastic for good measure. The basement is warmer and so is the room above the crawl space. I don't smell the mustiness either. Thanks again for the tip."

Here's another one from Marilyn W. in Troy, MI with a similar issue.

"I read your answer concerning musty smells coming from crawlspace and slab foundations. The musty smell is in our cottage. Part is a slab and part is a modified crawlspace that we can not get under. The space is too small and there is no entry. If we remove the carpet and spray the the floor with the liquid water vapor barrier, would this take care of the smell? It is closed a good part of the year, and when we do open and use it, the smell permeates everything including our clothes, hair etc. Please help us make our cottage usable. Thanks!"

Column 279

Build a Loft Bed

Posted on by Tim Carter
build a loft bed

This is a traditional bunk bed in my son's room. But we removed the lower bed to create a cubby for his desk. You can do the same thing with regular lumber and make a simplistic bed for a dorm room or even a starter apartment. Unless you have special woodworking equipment, your bed will not have the fancy end boards you see in this photo. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter

Loft Beds

DEAR TIM: I have a daughter going off to college and she wants a loft bed constructed in her dorm room. Her room dimensions are 10 feet by 16 feet with windows on the 16 foot wall side. The loft cannot be in front of the windows and there must be a minimum of 3 feet of space from the mattress to the ceiling. Help! There are only 4 weeks until classes begin. Nancy B., Uniontown, OH

DEAR NANCY: Let's see, from the time you wrote your note until the time this column was written we have lost 10 days. You now have just two and one half weeks to plan and build this loft. Relax, it's a piece of cake! If you take your time, your daughter just might have the coolest loft bed in the dorm. Not only that, her room should be spacious because her desk is going to tuck under the loft for a cozy study area. You need to pre-cut and assemble the loft now so that when you take it to the dorm, it will assemble in about 10 minutes.

The loft bed, that I have in mind, requires a floor space of only 48 inches in width, 78 inches of length and a minimum ceiling height of 8 feet. If the dorm room has a ceiling height greater than 8 feet, the headroom above the mattress, will be very generous. Based upon the room size you have provided, I have to believe that one corner of the dorm room will be able to easily accommodate the loft bed.

The plan I use is based upon a person sleeping on a standard twin sized mattress. These generally measure 38 inches wide by 76 inches long and are about 8 inches thick. Many colleges provide mattresses for dorm rooms. Make sure you determine the dimensions before you start this project.

The materials required to construct the loft consist of: 1 piece of 4 by 8 by 3/4 inch thick A/C plywood, four 4x4 by 8 feet long construction heart redwood or regular pine posts, three regular lumber 2x6x8's, three 1-inch thick by 3.5-inch wide by 8-foot long finished lumber boards and some assorted lag bolts and screws. The bolts and screws allow for easy assembly and disassembly. Nails should not be used to connect any of the pieces of lumber. Avoid using treated lumber for this project, as it is a good idea to minimize contact with the chemicals used in the treating process.

The loft portion of the bed is going to consist of a simple rectangle box made from the 2x6 lumber. This box is then covered with the custom cut piece of plywood. I prefer to make the loft platform so that there is just one inch of extra space around each side of the mattress. The mattress lays on top of the plywood-covered box you are about to make. Check to make sure the mattress you are going to use measures 38 x 76 inches. If so, then you should cut two of the 2x6's to a length of 78 inches.

Cut the remaining 2x6 into two pieces that measure 37 inches long. The long pieces overlap the short pieces at each corner so that you end up with a box that measures 40 inches by 78 inches and is five and one half inches tall. Use three 3 inch long drywall screws to connect the 2x6's to one another at each corner. Cut the piece of plywood to fit the box and use 1 and 5/8 inch drywall screws spaced at 2 foot intervals to connect the plywood to the 2 x 6 rectangular box.

Check to make sure that all of the 4x4 posts are the same length. Lay them on the ground side by side and measure down from one end 44 inches. Use a square across the group of posts and draw a line. This line on each post represents the point where the top of the loft platform must stop so that you maintain the 3 foot ceiling clearance.

Position two posts so that the outer edges are parallel and spaced 78 inches apart. Have your daughter help you tilt the platform up onto the posts so that the top surface of the plywood is just touching the line on each post. Drill two one quarter inch diameter holes through each 2x6 and half way into the center of the 4x4 posts. Attach the platform to the posts using 4 inch long 3/8 inch diameter lag bolts. Do the exact same thing with the other two posts and your loft bed is now complete.

To get up and down from the loft area, you will need to construct a ladder. Use the one inch thick lumber to make a ladder similar to those found on a ship or a fire escape. These have level treads spaced at 10 to 12 inch intervals and are often set at a fairly steep 60 degree angle. Once the ladder is built, attach it to the loft platform with screws so that it will not fall away as your daughter moves up and down from the loft. Be sure to take all of your tools with you in case minor adjustments have to be made at the dorm.

Author's Notes:

Received these pictures and the following emails. The first one is from Dona Lopez, TX. The second is from Tom Koenig, PA.

loft bed

A surprise Christmas present built from these instructions by a mom for her daughter. Doubles as a computer desk. PHOTO CREDIT: Dona Lopez

"Well it's not really a question, I used your instructions for the loft bed for a "While you were out" style Christmas surprise for my daughter, and I wanted to share the results with you.

I customized it a bit with a desk and a different type of ladder system due to extremely limited floor space, her room is about 10 x 10.

I'm a mom with basic woodworking skills, did it all in three days with only my 20 month old son to help (he's a whiz with the cordless drill lol)!

Thanks so much for the instructions, my daughter was completely floored! By the way the green was her idea!

Thanks again,"

Dona Lopez

 

loft bed

Photo Credit: Tom Koenig

"Just thought I would share a photo of the loft I just built. Your help was great. I used lots of molding to dress up the 2x lumber. Everything from Lowes, nothing fancy.

I also used rope lighting with remote control to light up the platform around the bed. I recessed the mattress as you suggested but used 1"x 4' angle iron." - Tom K.

Tom also posted this comment regarding his loft bed.

"When I made a loft for my 12 year old daughter this past Christmas I dressed up the 2x lumber with molding.  I topped the 2x6 bed frame with a bullnose and cove molding and then put a small dental molding beneath that. I also used a small stop molding on the lower part of the 2x6 to give weight to the lower part of the beam.  For the legs I used the same base molding on the bottom of the 4x4s as I have in the entire house. Then I put a small crown at the top of each post.  It doesn't make it furniture grade, but it really steps it up from painted lumber."

Read in my May 12, 2009 Newsletter about Liz's need for a special loft bed.

Column 280

Sandpaper Selection

Posted on by Tim Carter
sandpaper

Sandpaper Selection | This column was SO GOOD that I shared with the 31,000 subscribers who read my August 26, 2014 and my April 12, 2020 AsktheBuilder Newsletter. Photo Credit: Tim Carter

Sandpaper Selection

DEAR TIM: I could use a little help sanding some wood prior to staining it. I am sandpaper challenged. When I visit the hardware stores there are different colors, types, grits, etc. When do you use what? Is one paper better than another? I even saw some sandpaper on thin foam pads. It said on the package that you could rinse them with water after each use. Is that possible? Martin H., Sheperdsville, KY

DEAR MARTIN: You sure have some rough questions to answer. My answers may seem a little coarse, but I think they will be just fine. Okay, okay, so I won't quit my day job! The first thing you need to know is that they don't use sand on sandpaper. Today's manufacturers use high quality refined abrasive particles and fantastic resins and glues to bond the abrasives to a wide variety of different backing papers, foam and cloth.

Sandpaper got its start nearly 800 years ago. Chinese craftsmen used natural gum to bond crushed seashells to parchment paper. The abrasive paper industry continued to make progress but saw lots of innovation during the 1800's and early 1900's.

Most of the sandpaper products you see at the hardware stores are made using four types of abrasive particles, each available in different particle sizes or grits. The typical abrasive materials you will find are aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, red garnet, and ceramic grit.

Aluminum oxide sandpapers are probably the most common. They are excellent products to use on wood. One of the unique features of aluminum oxide is that it is a self-sharpening particle. As you use this type of sandpaper, small pieces of the grit fracture off. The remaining particle exposes a new sharp cutting face so that you see little loss of cutting power.

aluminum oxide sandpaper

This is great aluminum oxide sandpaper. It's my favorite brand. CLICK or TAP HERE or the photo to have it delivered to you.

Silicon carbide is sharp as well, but it doesn't crack as easily as aluminum oxide. This property makes it an excellent abrasive for use on plastics and metal. Red garnet is an abrasive mineral that actually gets dull as you sand with it. At first blush this may seem like a disadvantage. Many wood workers like this quality because it allows them to highly polish and buff wood surfaces prior to the application of stains and clear finishes.

The ceramic grits are not as sharp as the others. These abrasive particles are usually found on sandpaper that is used with mechanical sanders such as large drum sanders, belt sanders and rotating disk sanders.

Just about every sandpaper you see on the shelf at the hardware store does a great job if you match it to the job you are doing. Keep in mind that to make a rough piece of lumber satin smooth before you stain it, you need to use possibly 4 different types of sandpaper. A coarse paper will often be a number 50 or 60 grit. Use this paper to begin the sanding process and sand across the grain of the wood or at a 45 degree angle to the grain. Switch next to 100 grit paper and sand in the same direction of the wood grain. The final sanding should be done with 150 or 180 grit paper just before you get ready to stain. Be sure to sand in the same direction of the grain with fine and ultra fine grits. After the wood has been stained you may want to lightly dress it with 220 grit paper before and in between coats of clear urethane. If you desire professional results, the wood needs to be as smooth as glass before you stain.

The sandpaper coated foam pads are really innovative. Most are made to be used wet or dry. This means you can use them for wood, metal or plastic. The foam actually helps the sanding process as it allows the grit to float over the object being sanded. This usually produces a more gentle and more even cut. Because the foam is flexible, the pads allow you to easily sand rounded or irregular shaped objects. I have used them with great success and love the fact that you can clean and rinse them after each use. Once dry, the foam sanding pads look and perform like new.

Companion Articles: Sandpaper Comparison, Foam Pads for Sanding, Abrasives & Specialty Sandpaper, Sandpaper Facts

This popular article was the Tip of the Week in the June 4, 2013 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Column 281

Y2K – A Real or Perceived Threat?

Posted on by Tim Carter
Y2K

If you have a negative outlook on life, start gathering supplies such as these. Me, well I am not going to do anything to get ready. I have a feeling everything is going be just fine. I figure Superman will save the day if need be.

DEAR TIM: To tell you the truth, I am a little concerned about all this Y2K stuff. What if many computers malfunction on New Years Day? How can I protect the investment in my house and that of my mother who lives in Florida? What should we do to prepare for possible interruptions in utilities? Just what are you doing to get ready? Hollis B., Columbus, OH

DEAR HOLLIS: To be perfectly honest with you, I am just now starting to make some Y2K preparations. I actually planned for periodic disruptions in electric service when I built my home some years ago. At that time, I installed a wood burning fireplace that has a special firebox that allows heat from the fire to flow back into the rooms of the house. About 10 years ago, we lost power for 3 days during an early winter storm and the fire I built kept the family warm enough to survive. I also recently installed a set of gas logs in another fireplace that require no electricity to operate. If the utility company is still piping natural gas during a Y2K crisis, I will be in great shape.

There are several things you should think about doing in the event there are Y2K problems. Since you live in a climate where it drops below freezing, you need to protect your water piping systems from the danger of freezing. The water supply lines represent the largest danger. You need to make sure that your main water shutoff valve operates with ease and that you have the ability to drain the water supply lines in the entire house.

To effectively drain water lines, you need a valve in a low spot of the water supply line system. A simple boiler drain valve that has hose threads on it will work just fine. This allows you to install a garden hose on the valve to allow water to drain to a floor drain or some other low spot. To drain down a water system without the aid of compressed air, get as many people to help as possible. Station a person at each plumbing fixture or group of fixtures. Turn off the main water supply valve. When a signal is given that all can hear, turn on all plumbing fixtures, flush all toilets and open the boiler drain valve. Gravity will pull virtually all of the water out of the water supply lines.

If the heat does go out in your home, and it begins to really get cold or you decide to abandon the home, you need to pour some potable or recreational vehicle antifreeze into the drain traps of all sinks, tubs, and showers. Avoid using automotive antifreeze as it is highly poisonous and can cause problems in public sewer and private septic systems. You need to pour the antifreeze into toilet bowls as well. This solution keeps the standing water in those fixtures from freezing and rupturing the drain lines. Your mother in Florida shouldn't have to worry one bit about freezing weather. She needs to stockpile sun screen lotion!

Air leaks around windows, doors and other exterior cracks will rob your house of the marginal heat that a fireplace will produce. It is a good idea to make sure that all weatherstripping and gaps around doors and windows are sealed tightly. If your attic has minimal insulation, now would be a great time to upgrade so that your house stays warmer for a longer period of time.

If you plan to burn wood or some other fuel, make sure your chimney is cleaned. If there is a chimney fire during a crisis and there is no water supply, you house will most likely burn to the ground. For this reason do not use candles for lighting purposes. Purchase high quality flashlights and lots of batteries.

Start to save plastic one gallon milk jugs. Rinse them out well and begin to stockpile water. Fill the bottles with 16 ounces of rinse water and shake vigorously. Do this at least 5 times before filling with water. You can also use 2 liter soda pop bottles to store water. Put 4 or 5 drops of chlorine bleach in each container to stifle bacteria growth. You can also fill them in the last few weeks of December if you desire to have the freshest water. If you need to drink the water, open the containers and pour it into a large bowl. Let it sit for 12 - 24 hours and the chlorine taste and odor will dissipate.

Those people who live in a moderate climate should make preparations to capture rainwater for sanitation purposes and possible drinking water. If it snows during the crisis, you can always melt snow to make liquid water.

Your mother needs to think about a potential interruption of air conditioning. Window shades or outdoor awnings might help minimize heat gain if this happens. She should also stockpile water. If the Y2K crisis turns out to be a dud, the water bottles will come in handy during a water main break. If you don't believe me, just ask my Mom!

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Outdoor Lighting

Posted on by Tim Carter
outdoor lighting

This house is only several miles from mine. The outdoor lighting is just splendid at twilight.

DEAR TIM: Some of my neighbors' houses and gardens have some unique and interesting outdoor lighting. I asked them about it, and they said it is low-voltage outdoor lighting. Is this possible? Are there limitations to what you can do with exterior lighting? What should I be concerned about? Is it difficult to install? Lisa N., West Warwick, RI

DEAR LISA: High-powered low-voltage outdoor lighting is nothing new at all. The next time you are out driving at night and some idiot turns on his bright headlights in your face temporarily ruining your night vision, keep in mind those headlight bulbs are powered with just 12 volts of electricity.

The outdoor lighting industry has been making hundreds of exquisite low-voltage outdoor light fixtures in a multitude of finishes for all sorts of uses for over 40 years. Its popularity has exploded during the past 10 years.

There are many, many advantages to using low voltage lighting in outdoor applications. Lower voltage means smaller, more compact, light bulbs and light fixtures. This allows you to hide fixtures within landscaping so that they are not visible during daylight hours. Installation costs are much less than if you were to use traditional high-voltage fixtures. High-voltage wiring often requires conduit, and lots of labor to install all wiring and fixtures to meet or exceed the National Electrical Code.

Outdoor lights can be used to do all sorts of things. You can use them to create small, soft puddles of light to illuminate a garden path. Outdoor waterscapes can contain underwater lights that let you enjoy small ponds and waterfalls on those dark evenings when you are relaxing on your patio or deck. More powerful beams of light can shoot straight up or down to draw attention to specimen trees, bushes, or magnificent features of your home. Lights can be activated by timers, motion detectors, photo-electric cells, or traditional switches if you prefer.

The central core of a low-voltage outdoor lighting system is the power center. This is a high-performance transformer that steps down regular 120 volt household current to the low voltage needed to power your lights. These centers are often installed outdoors. Because low voltage means less energy, the power centers should be centrally located within the lighting arrangement. This keeps voltage loss to any one fixture at a minimum.

You need to be concerned about over-lighting. Many homeowners make mistakes by installing far too many exterior lights. To further complicate things, good intentioned homeowners often select the wrong lights. The first thing you need to do before you purchase any products is to decide exactly what you are trying to accomplish. Do you want security lighting, landscape lighting for trees only, architectural lights to highlight features on your home, or a combination of these? Each of these applications requires specific light fixtures equipped with specialized high performance lamp bulbs.

Also, keep in mind a growing interest in the dark skies movement. Some parts of the nation limit the amount of outdoor lighting, as it interferes with star gazing. Be sure you check with your local government code officials or in private subdivision regulations or covenants for dark skies policies.

Once you have a general idea of how many lights you think you might use, draw up a simple plan. Compare the number of lights you think you need to the actual number of lights you see at many of your neighbors' houses and gardens. Stop by and visit them and do an actual fixture count. You might be surprised to find out that you have too many lights in your plan.

Keep in mind that you can always add more lights at a later date. The power centers that feed the safe low voltage electricity to each light come in different sizes so you should plan ahead. If your initial lighting plan causes you to reach the capacity of a certain power center, it might be wise to upgrade to the next size. You will not regret this in the event you need to add several more lights as you begin to fall in love with what outdoor lighting can do for you.

Low-voltage outdoor lighting can be a challenge to install if you have no electrical experience. Voltage-drop calculations often need to be considered, cables and fixtures need to be sized, total light wattage needs to be calculated, power centers need to be sized, etc.

Some manufacturers have excellent step-by-step guidelines and booklets, but even after reading these, you may feel overwhelmed. Don't hesitate to obtain quotes from several outdoor-lighting experts in your area. Be sure to visit projects they have completed, and view them at night. Ask the homeowners if they would hire the company again to do additional work.

Companion Articles:  Landscape Lighting,  Low Voltage Landscape Lighting Resources,  Low Voltage Landscape Lighting Problems,  Low Voltage Outdoor Lighting Manufacturers

Column 285

Change Drill Bits in a Snap!

Posted on by Tim Carter

drill bits

Changing Drill Bits

DEAR TIM: I am really frustrated with the chore of exchanging different drill bits while doing projects. Using a drill chuck key can be a real pain. I have two drills that I can use, but this seems like a waste as well. What do you do to make switching drill bits and other accessories go smoothly? Surely there must be a better way! Steve D., Crown Point, IN

DEAR STEVE: I not only have experienced frustration, but also bloody knuckles on more than one occasion! Traditional drill chucks that require the use of a key are fine if you intend to use one bit for several hours or all day. But many jobs require switching of different bits or accessory tips within a matter of minutes. Enormous amounts of time and energy are wasted every time you have to use a drill chuck key.

Drill manufacturers thought they had solved this problem several years ago when they introduced the keyless drill chuck. I have several drills that use this very nice feature. Keyless drill chucks grasp drill bits tightly and are easy to use. However, they only solve part of the problem. If you need to change bits frequently, you still have to turn the chuck mechanism to release the bit and then adjust and re-tighten once you have the new bit or accessory tip in place.

The problem with drill chucks was solved not too long ago. Interestingly enough, the traditional drill chuck has been left unchanged. Someone had an ingenious idea to marry the simple, yet dependable, quick connect fittings commonly found on pneumatic tools, gas hoses, automotive tools, etc. to regular drill bits and other accessories.

The end result is so nifty you can't believe it. You can buy different tool kits that include a variety of different sized drill bits, drill extension rods, screwdriver bits, screwdriver guides, etc. that have a unique hexagonal shaft at one end rather than the traditional rounded end. Included with each kit is a special holder that you install into your drill chuck. After you tighten the drill chuck , you load and unload different bits into this holder with a simple quick motion. The holder grabs onto the bits or accessories and the hexagonal shaped shaft prevents slippage as the drill turns.

Some of the holders work differently than others. Certain ones have a sliding ring that clicks to an open position that allows you to load or unload a bit. When you have the bit in place, you then slide the outer ring backwards to lock the bit in place. Other designs have a spring loaded ring mechanism. You slide the outer holder collar down to load or unload a bit. Once you let go of the ring, it locks the bit into place. Another design allows you to simply push bits into the holder and they lock in place. To release the bit, you simply slide the outer ring and the bit falls into your hand.

These very handy tool kits come in different sizes. You can purchase smaller kits that have approximately 20 - 30 pieces including the bit holder, assorted wood and steel drill bits, flathead and Phillips head screwdriver tips, nut drivers, spade drill bits that cut larger diameter holes, and special screw countersink bits that have a small pilot bit included. As you might expect, you can also buy kits that have up to 85 pieces! All of the kits come with wonderful plastic or tough fabric cases that store the bits and accessory tips.

Many of the kits come with a very nice tool that has a sliding guide that surrounds a screw. When you slide the guide into place, it surrounds the entire screw. This makes it impossible for the screw to jump out of the bit that you have installed into the tool. As the screw is driven into the wood or metal, the guide retracts on its own allowing you to drive the screw without fear of making a mistake.

These new drill bit kits with the accessories are one of the best power tool ideas I have seen in a long time. It is now a joy to use a drill instead of a hassle. I can assure you that once you use this system, your old drill bits will soon be a garage sale item.

Companion Articles:  Where to Buy Quick Release Tools,  Quick Release Drill Bit Manufacturers,  Drill Bits - Quick Release

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