Condensation - Cause & Control
Summary: The best heating system uses radiant heat and air circulation. If your home begins frosting on inside walls, dripping water on windows or window frames your house may be too humid. Or, your newly installed system may be pumping too much moisture into the air.
DEAR TIM: This past summer I had a new heating system installed. I switched from radiant baseboard heating to a forced air system. My windows now have condensation forming on them. Is the new heating system producing excessive moisture inside my house? If not, what might be the cause of the condensation. On extremely cold nights the water turns to ice. Is there a solution to the problem? G. I.
DEAR G.I.: Too bad you couldn't have kept the radiant system in place along with your new system. I often think that the best heating system is one that utilizes both radiant energy and air circulation. Don't fret, I have only seen one house in my 25 years of building that did incorporate both systems.
Your new system may be to blame if you had a humidifier installed. The humidifier may be pumping too much moisture into the air. Humidifiers are mechanisms that attach to the sides of the ductwork very near or next to your new furnace. They are often easy to spot since they have a tiny flexible water supply line which connects them to your plumbing system.
If you indeed have a humidifier, check the control dial which regulates its operation. The indoor relative humidity must be adjusted in relationship to the outdoor temperature. As the outdoor temperature drops, so to must your indoor humidity. When you do not control this balance, condensation begins to form on the window glass.
If you do not have a humidifier, I think I know what is causing the problem. Condensation forms on your windows because the glass temperature reaches the dew point as the outside temperature drops. It is the same thing that happens to the grass on an early summer morning or when a cold can of soda or beer is taken outside in the summer time. The air that comes into contact with the cold surface cools rapidly. The moisture in this cooled air switches from the vapor state to the liquid state. The liquid water collects on the cold surface.
In your case, I think your old baseboard heaters produced enough radiant heat to keep your interior glass above the dew point of the moist, indoor air. Your new forced air system will not readily produce the invisible infrared heat that your baseboard heaters provided. This is one reason why radiant heat is so desirable.
The solution to your problem lies in lowering the indoor humidity to a tolerable and comfortable level. You may be able to do this by identifying sources of excessive indoor humidity. Excessively hot baths or showers pump huge volumes of moisture into the air. Try to take cooler showers. Cooking activities that create lots of steam might be the culprit. Try to cover pots to minimize steam rising into the air. Vast forests of indoor plants can produce large quantities of airborne moisture. Investigate to see if there are plants that liberate less moisture than others. I suggest that you invest in a high quality hygrometer. This is a device that measures relative humidity.
Take readings in different rooms each day at the same time. Chart your findings. Observe how much condensation is present on the glass at the same time. If you still have condensation after you have attempted to minimize indoor humidity, you will have to operate a dehumidifier. This device will allow you to extract moisture from the inside of your house. Continue to take humidity readings until the condensation stops or you can't stand the static electricity shocks!
|
|
Comments:
Dirk Johnson 23 Dec 2007, 16:41
I live in tucson, az, my dwelling was probably built in the 50's, it's all
block construction including interior walls. I have replaced all the old
windows and added closet space my problem is that my north side walls and
south side windows have condensation on the interior, yhe closet, behind
the cabinet in the kitchen. I dont have a exhaust fan for the kitchen or
bathroom and only heat the living room and bedroom with electric heaters.
what to do?
AsktheBuilder 23 Dec 2007, 16:51
Dirk,
You need to read ALL of my past columns about Condensation and the ones about Indoor Humidity.
Dawn 07 Apr 2008, 18:17
I tried to find an answer in the columns but couldn't - hopefully I didn't
miss it.
A couple years ago we had our house sided. Tonight our dryer died and while trying to determine if the vent was clogged we discovered that the new siding only left 1/4 of the vent hole open. Could this have caused the dryer to die earlier by having to work harder and more importantly is this dangerous? Thank you
AsktheBuilder 12 Apr 2008, 06:30
Dawn,
Yes. This would cause the dryer to work harder and shorten its life span.
E.W. 16 Aug 2008, 14:52
I HAVE MOLD PROBLEM BETWEEN WALLS IN MY DOUBLE-WIDE MANUFACTURED HOME AND
ALSO WATER COMING FROM LIGHT SWITCHES AND LIGHT FIXTURES DOWN CENTER OF
HOUSE HAD DEALER COME OUT AND WAS TOLD TO INSTALL PLASTIC UNDER THE HOME
DID NOT HELP.NOTICED WALL IN BED ROOM RIPPLING REMOVED PANELING THERE THE
MOLD WAS.PURCHASED A INFRARED TEMP. METER AT THE FLOOR AT CRACK TEMP. SAME
AS INSIDE HOUSE CHECKED AT TOP TEMP. AT CRACK VERY HIGH. MOLD HALF WAY ON
WALL AT TOP ENGINEER SAYS COMING FROM UNDER HOUSE I THINK COLD AIR IN HOUSE
AND HEAT FROM CRAWL SPACE IN ATTIC CAUSING PROBLEM.ADVISE
Cheris 09 Dec 2008, 09:52
I was making sunday dinner while hanging x-mas lights. The doors and
windows were sweating. In the midddle of the night after the house was cool
I heard a noise at the window like something popped. It was the window
cracked from top to bottom, is this possible?
View all comments |


